Paul Costelloe House Presents First Collection Since Designer's Passing
The Paul Costelloe fashion label has unveiled its autumn/winter 2026 collection, marking a significant new chapter for the iconic Irish brand following the death of its founder. This presentation, held on the opening day of London Fashion Week, represents the first showcase since Paul Costelloe passed away in November 2025 at the age of 80.
A Fresh Start Under New Leadership
William Costelloe, the son of the late designer, has assumed the role of creative director and described this collection as "a fresh start" for the esteemed fashion house. In his debut at the helm, William has drawn direct inspiration from the triumphant era that defined his father's career, particularly the 1980s when Paul Costelloe served as personal designer to Diana, Princess of Wales.
The collection features 44 looks that revisit the distinctive Eighties accents that became synonymous with Princess Diana's wardrobe. Key elements include broad, sculpted shoulders, pussy-bow blouses, and sharply tailored double-breasted jackets with peplum waists. The prevailing palette of grey, taupe, mocha, and black lends a refined restraint to silhouettes that carry profound historical resonance.
Honouring a Fashion Legacy
Paul Costelloe's designs were celebrated for their uplifting colours, bold florals, and exaggerated silhouettes, elements that became closely associated with the Princess's iconic Eighties style. For this collection, William has woven his father's legacy quite literally into the fabric of this new chapter, with ballgowns in the eveningwear section adorned with Paul Costelloe's trademark illustrative drawings.
The opening look set the definitive tone for the entire presentation: a tailored jacket crafted from Irish tweed by Magee, featuring blooming florals at the shoulder. William explained that this detail symbolised "a beginning to the Paul Costelloe brand, a fresh start, but still in keeping to my father's amazing legacy."
Irish Heritage and International Ambition
Traditional Irish textiles have long underpinned the house's identity, and this season continues that tradition with exceptional craftsmanship. The use of these fabrics reinforces the label's heritage while positioning it for renewal and future growth. William Costelloe emphasised the emotional weight behind the collection, stating: "My father had an incredibly strong vision, and that clarity is something I carry with me."
Paul Costelloe's own remarkable career was defined by international ambition, having studied at the Grafton Academy of Fashion Design in Dublin before training in Paris at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. He subsequently worked in Milan for La Rinascente and in New York for Anne Fogarty before launching Paul Costelloe Collections in 1979. His appointment as personal designer to Princess Diana in 1983 cemented his enduring place in fashion history.
A Standing Ovation for Continuity
As William Costelloe stepped onto the runway to take his bow, he received a standing ovation from the audience. This gesture suggested he had accomplished precisely what he set out to achieve: a respectful homage to the founder whose name defined the house, paired with the assurance of continuity and innovative new ideas.
The autumn/winter 2026 show does not attempt to distance itself from Paul Costelloe's legacy but instead leans into it wholeheartedly, with broad shoulders, bold detailing, and impeccable Irish craftsmanship remaining intact. The presentation signals clearly that while the name above the door remains unchanged, a new generation is now shaping its future direction with reverence and creative vision.
