The Eighties hair revival is here, but today's big, bouncy styles are a far cry from the rigid perms and stiff hairspray of the original era. Celebrities such as Sabrina Carpenter, Doja Cat and Simone Ashley are championing volume, but with a crucial modern twist: softness and movement.
Celebrity hairstylist Jason Collier, founder of Studio23, says the key difference now is 'touchability': lift and fullness that allows hair to move naturally, not sit in a helmet of lacquer. To achieve this, he advises starting with the right cut—long, feathered layers placed through the crown and around the face—rather than relying on styling tools alone. Heavy, blunt lines drag volume down, he warns.
For curly hair, precision layering is even more critical. Curly hair expert Nicola Harrowell of Curlsmith recommends rounded layers that let curls spring up and out, avoiding heavy lengths that pull them down. The goal is a softer, more natural aesthetic that doesn't require teasing or over-styling.
Product selection is essential to avoid a crunchy finish. Collier advises using root sprays, light mousses and fine texture mists that support hair rather than coating it, steering clear of heavy waxes, thick creams and old-school hairsprays. Harrowell suggests diluting gels with water for a juicy texture, and recommends a lightweight mousse to keep curls soft and bouncy.
Blow-drying technique matters, too. Collier recommends drying roots in the opposite direction to the natural fall, or flipping the head upside down. For long layers, stylist Sophie Chandler of RUSH Hair suggests a large round brush to inject volume, drying back and forth away from the root. Curly hair benefits most from diffusing on low heat with low airflow, head tilted to encourage lift.
Finally, all stylists agree that healthy hair is the foundation of good volume. Heat protection is non-negotiable, as unprotected styling strips moisture and weakens hair. As Chandler puts it: 'Healthy hair always looks fuller.'
