Louis Vuitton's Paris fashion week show took place in an inner courtyard of the Louvre, where a fleet of 34 flying cars in the brand's Damier check pattern hovered on stilts above the catwalk, illuminating it with their tail lights. The show began at sunset on an unseasonably warm October evening, with temperatures still at 24C.
Designer's Vision for a Warmer World
Designer Nicolas Ghesquière said this summer's record temperatures influenced the collection. "The world is getting warmer, this definitely had a strong influence," he said. The models wore silk slip dresses, breezy vented tunics, and gossamer layers of chiffon, a departure from his signature angular, ornate looks.
"I am a specialist in a kind of fashion that is like armour, fashion with strong architecture, but this summer I think we all felt like we needed a different wardrobe. The world is getting warmer. We need to think differently, for clothes to be relevant today and in the future," Ghesquière said.
Futuristic Set and Celebrity Guests
The contrast between the futuristic set and the historic buildings echoed the Louvre's centrepiece, where IM Pei's glass pyramid stands amid French classical architecture. Ghesquière's science fiction bent appeared in the models' beaded silver fringes, which resembled space-age hair extensions or sun visors. He said he was thinking about life in cities of the future, with models as pedestrians among flying cars. "I was thinking about a woman walking through traffic, and how in the urban environment we sometimes feel vulnerable and sometimes feel strong."
Zendaya wore a ruffled organza jacket last seen on her Odyssey press tour, and the Rivals actor Bella Maclean was in sleek black tailoring. Ghesquière took his bow casually dressed in jeans. Louis Vuitton is the flagship brand of luxury giant LVMH, which contributes about 1% to French GDP.
Designer Knighted by Macron
On Friday, Ghesquière, who has led Vuitton for a decade, was knighted by President Emmanuel Macron for his contribution to French creative industries at a ceremony at the Élysée Palace. The first lady, Brigitte Macron, has a longstanding close collaboration with Ghesquière, attending his shows and wearing custom looks for state occasions. President Macron began his speech joking that "it feels strange to be decorating someone tonight who is used to looking at my wife from every angle … she just told me you are the second man in her life."
Guests at the ceremony included Catherine Deneuve, British designer Phoebe Philo, and K-pop star Felix of Stray Kids. Ghesquière wore a striking double-breasted Louis Vuitton black suit with a single button fastening and no lapel. Pinning the red ribboned medallion to his chest, Macron said: "This evening … it is the Republic itself that is adding a new element to your wardrobe."
