Polo necks have taken over the men's catwalks at Paris Fashion Week, offering a French solution to the struggle to stay warm as energy bills soar across Europe. From Givenchy's high black versions to Wales Bonner's tight salmon pink, the classic garment appeared in countless variations, including candy pink at Walter Van Beirendonck and funnel-neck jumpers at Saint Laurent that covered wearers' mouths.
Matthew M. Williams, creative director of Givenchy, described the polo neck as "a classic" backstage, noting that his label opens with five of them every season. Williams styled his under sharp black suits and broad-shouldered camel coats, while other designers paired theirs with faux fur stoles. The garment has a long tradition in European style, having been worn by intellectuals such as Samuel Beckett and Michel Foucault in the 1960s, as well as Italian film stars like Marcello Mastroianni.
Recently, however, the polo neck has become a political flashpoint in France. Last autumn, finance minister Bruno Le Maire urged civil servants to ditch their shirt and tie for a polo neck rather than turning up the heating. The controversy peaked when President Emmanuel Macron wore a black cashmere version to a meeting, prompting opposition leader Marine Le Pen to tweet: "Don't have enough heating? Let them wear cashmere."
Beyond politics, the polo neck is a favourite among the wealthy, both fictional and real. Succession's Shiv Roy wears £700 versions by Gabriela Hearst, while LVMH's billionaire owners, the Arnault family, are rarely seen in anything else. It is also the de facto uniform of tech CEOs who are among the richest people in the world.
Meanwhile, few in France will want to resemble Macron this week, as Paris prepares for strikes over his government's planned pension reforms. Instead, the practical alternative may be the fashion fleece – a chunky cream North Face version was spotted repeatedly on drivers, journalists and photographers, one of whom said it was so warm that only a T-shirt was needed underneath.
