Burberry's Urban Revival: Trenchcoats and Rain Define London Fashion Week
In a winter marked by record-breaking rainfall, Burberry has reasserted itself as the quintessential purveyor of the classic British coat, perfectly aligning with the zeitgeist. The brand's resurgence is underscored by its re-entry into the FTSE 100 last autumn, following a challenging year outside the charts. This comeback is further highlighted by the Lyst index, which ranked the classic check scarf as the fourth hottest fashion item in the final quarter of 2025, with overall demand for Burberry skyrocketing by 239% year on year.
Designer Daniel Lee's Vision: Embracing London's Energy
Designer Daniel Lee, speaking backstage after the show, revealed that his studio at Burberry headquarters features a massive skylight, allowing him to observe the relentless rain. He reflected on London's vibrant atmosphere, noting that even during dark and wet nights, the city maintains an incredible buzz with people actively engaging in nightlife. This urban energy served as a central inspiration for the collection, which moved away from previous themes of muddy festival fields and country house weekends to focus on contemporary city life.
The Iconic Show: A Star-Studded London Night Out
The Burberry show, held under the vaulted iron ribs of the historic Billingsgate fish market, epitomized an iconic London night out. Celebrities such as Daisy Edgar-Jones and Olivia Dean mingled while awaiting Kate Moss, who arrived 45 minutes late. Footballer Eberechi Eze occupied a front-row seat, and Romeo Beckham confidently walked the catwalk, adding to the event's glamour. The collection featured not only trenchcoats but also faux-fur bomber jackets and padded leather jackets, paired with sturdy leather boots suitable for chasing a night bus.
Leaning into the Weather: A Strategic Move
While many may tire of the rain, Burberry embraced it wholeheartedly, incorporating non-slip resin puddles on the catwalk to enhance the urban aesthetic, even as models navigated them in six-inch heels. The brand has doubled down on outerwear as its core offering, accessorized with scarves, hats, and umbrellas. The show opened with an ivory trench-ballgown hybrid, reminiscent of the outfit worn by Teyana Taylor at the recent Baftas, nodding to Burberry's heritage while infusing modern flair.
Strategic Shift: Targeting Aspirational Customers
After an unsuccessful foray into high-concept fashion with steep prices, Burberry, under American chief executive Joshua Schulman, is now targeting an aspirational customer base. This demographic is willing to invest in a quality coat and values the cachet of a heritage brand but has been priced out of luxury super brands from Paris and Milan. However, this turnaround has come at a significant cost, including the global elimination of 1,700 jobs announced last May, with 150 roles cut at the Castleford factory in Yorkshire due to night shift closures.
Cultural References and Heritage Celebrations
Burberry's legacy is rich with cultural touchstones, from past catwalk appearances by icons like Richard E Grant and Naomi Campbell to festive displays such as the Christmas tree at Claridge's hotel, designed by Lee and adorned with vintage Burberry bows. The brand's advertisements continue to celebrate British heritage, featuring original supermodel Twiggy in a 1960s-style snake-print car coat and Maya Wigram, daughter of designer Phoebe Philo, in a laser-cut trenchcoat. This nod to fashion history underscores Lee's pedigree, having worked alongside Philo during her tenure at Celine in Paris throughout much of the 2010s.
Overall, Burberry's latest collection not only captures the essence of urban London but also strategically positions the brand for sustained growth by leveraging its heritage and adapting to contemporary consumer desires.
