Endo's Dream of Sushi: A Culinary Pilgrimage Through Japan
Endo Kazutoshi, a world-renowned sushi chef, faced a devastating blow when a fire ravaged his Michelin-starred restaurant, Endo at the Rotunda, in west London. As he grappled with the loss, he embarked on an emotional journey across Japan, visiting the suppliers and family who shaped his career, revealing a story of resilience and rebirth in the culinary world.
The Fire That Changed Everything
On September 6, 2025, Endo was on a train to Paris for a well-deserved break when he received the shocking news. A blaze had erupted at the Helios building, home to his restaurant, destroying the dining room, prep kitchen, and cherished items like his knife rack and personal mementos. Despite the chaos, he kept a reservation at L'Ambroisie, a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Paris, but found himself unable to enjoy the meal, consumed by thoughts of the fire.
Returning to London, Endo faced the smouldering remains of his life's work. The Rotunda, which he called his "home," had held a Michelin star for six years and was ranked No. 1 in the UK by Harden's Restaurant Guide. The loss included not just physical assets but symbolic items, such as knives gifted by his mentor and father, highlighting the deep personal connection to his craft.
A Trip to Japan: Reconnecting with Roots
In the aftermath, Endo traveled to Japan with a journalist and photographer, aiming to document his journey for a book and gather inspiration for reopening. His itinerary spanned eight cities in eight days, from Tokyo to Fukushima, showcasing his relationships with key suppliers. Endo, known for his gregarious personality and punk-inspired style, contrasted with the traditional image of a sushi master, yet his discipline and expertise shone through.
He visited his rice meister in Fukushima, where they discussed the impact of global warming on rice quality, emphasizing how climate change affects even the finest ingredients. Endo's rice, sourced from biodynamic farms, is crucial to his sushi, with protein levels meticulously controlled for perfect nigiri. The trip also included stops at Toyosu fish market, where he reconnected with tuna supplier Hicho, a family business dating back to 1861, and a traditional vinegar brewery in Tokyo.
Family Ties and Culinary Heritage
Endo's journey took him to his family's restaurant in Yokohama, Midori Sushi, run by his brother Toshio. Here, he reflected on his upbringing, where his mother, Sumi, enforced strict training in tea ceremonies, floristry, and calligraphy to prepare him for the family business. Despite excelling in wrestling and receiving a university scholarship, Endo was compelled to follow the culinary path, leading to apprenticeships in Kyoto and Nagoya under masters who taught him the foundations of sushi.
His departure from the family restaurant after a disagreement over quality standards marked a turning point, eventually leading him to London. There, he worked at Zuma before being inspired by Rose Gray of the River Café to focus on British produce and earn a Michelin star. This advice guided his vision for the Rotunda, where he built a network of suppliers from Cornwall to Japan, creating a personalized omakase experience.
Rebuilding and Moving Forward
After the fire, Endo found solace in his mother's words: "Nothing is finished." He temporarily relocated to Annabel's in London, where his team and suppliers rallied to support him, even rescuing his knives from the blaze. The trip to Japan reinforced his connections and provided clarity for the future. Endo now views the fire not as an end but as a chapter in his ongoing journey, embracing the philosophy of acceptance and forward momentum.
His story underscores the fragility and resilience of culinary artistry, blending tradition with innovation. As omakase sushi continues to gain global popularity, Endo's ability to adapt and rebuild serves as an inspiration, proving that even in loss, new beginnings can emerge from the ashes.
