A group show at Australian fashion week has showcased a darker, more gothic aesthetic, moving away from the country's reputation for sunny summer dressing. The Frontier, a showcase of six emerging female designers, featured corsetry, body armour and unusual silhouettes at the Sydney Theatre Company.
The show's curators, Peter Simon Phillips and Alison Veness, said they aimed to 'tap into a new wave of female energy' around themes of 'romance, life, death, ghosts, otherworldliness, corseted sensuality and freedom of movement'. Designers who create with their own hands and are skilled in well-constructed, imaginative clothes were given preference.
Hannah Kim, of label Haluminous, described her collection as 'nocturnal-resort' and 'holiday dressing in black'. Pieces ranged from barely-there tank tops to miniskirts with reinforced hems, starting 'light as a petal' and ending with 'something more empowered, almost like a shining knight in armour'.
Samantha Diorio's label Ouse focuses on transformable clothing that can morph from one function to another, increasing longevity. Suzaan Stander, a recent graduate, draws inspiration from inanimate objects; her favourite tulle skirt was inspired by a Victorian lampshade.
Jackie Galleghan of Madre Natura, the most established designer in the show, presented clothing with a romantic edge, including corset-style darts and tiered petal skirts. Stylist Tori Knowles said the Frontier team asked: 'Who is actually saying something? Who is willing to be uncomfortable, to push a boundary?'
