For me, Tenby stands apart from every other Welsh seaside town I have visited. Its natural and architectural beauty, the quality of what it offers visitors, and four different beaches all walkable from the town itself make it a must-visit destination. It is also a gateway to one of the most beautiful parts of the world.
Tenby has just been named among the best seaside towns and villages in the UK after a Which? survey of more than 5,000 people. It scored five out of five for its seafront, scenery and beaches. Portmeirion, St David's, Conwy and Llandudno also made the top 30, but for me Tenby stands above all others.
Why Tenby stands out
I visit at least once a year and feel the stress of everyday life melting away the instant I arrive. An autumn long weekend with friends is an annual ritual, and I try to spend another weekend there in the summer, when the town is at its best.
Tenby's history goes back centuries. The town centre is built around narrow streets and alleys, surrounded by imposing medieval walls. Tenby once had a slightly faded seaside grandeur and a reputation for stag and hen parties, but in 2026 it combines outstanding natural features with a bustling town centre packed with independent places to shop, browse, eat and drink. It is a one-of-a-kind town that I will never get bored of, and I would go a lot more often if I could.
A town of four beaches
Where else in Britain can you reach four different beaches on foot from a town centre within minutes? North Beach and South Beach are large, with wide open spaces at low tide and fun waves at high tide. At North Beach, a jagged rock rises from the sand and is great for exploring rock pools at low tide.
Between those two are the smaller Harbour Beach, where the town's fleet of small fishing boats is moored, and Castle Beach, sandwiched between two rocky outcrops. One outcrop is home to St Catherine's Island and its historic clifftop fort, which form the focal point of the beach.
Depending on the tides, some of the beaches break up even more, and you can find yourself sitting on what feels like a private beach. Watch the tide, though, or you could get cut off - there are stone steps leading up to safety in several areas.
How to spend 24 hours in Tenby
Start with breakfast or coffee and cake in one of the town centre cafes. There are plenty, including Fuchsia and the Loafley Bakery and Deli, but my favourite is Stowaway. Tiny and built into an archway under one of Tenby's famous seafront streets, right above the water, it is cosy on a blustery day.
If the weather permits, the best thing to do is head to one of the four beaches, all within walking distance of the town centre and of each other. For lunch, try fish and chips at Fecci's or Pipers, or grab a lobster roll or crab sandwich from a stand just above the harbour. Then browse the independent shops selling books, clothes, art and homeware.
In the afternoon, take a boat trip to Caldey Island. You are dropped off at an empty beach of near-white sand that would not look out of place in the Caribbean, then you can explore the peaceful island on foot. There is an Italianate-style monastery built in 1906 and a 13th-century church, St Illtyd's.
In the evening, visit the pubs and restaurants. Harbwr is a pub run by the brewery of the same name, serving good pub food alongside its own beers. The Hope and Anchor is a gastropub specialising in seafood, Tap and Tân cooks meat on open flames in front of you, and Top Joe's does superb pizza. Plantagenet House is a more upmarket option, serving scallops and lamb in a distinctive yellow restaurant hidden down a historic alley. There are plenty of other options, including Indian restaurants.
Where to stay in Tenby
Tenby has a large number of hotels, B&Bs and Airbnbs, many lining the famous clifftops with sea views. The Imperial Hotel seems to defy physics, rising from the rocks above the water; it could not be closer to the cliff edge. Other hotels look out to sea from high vantage points.
You can also stay in grand 19th-century houses, like Whistler House, whose patio and glass-fronted balcony surely have one of the best views in Wales. I have stayed there several times. The town is compact, so even without a sea view you are never far from the water. I once rented a small apartment through Booking.com for £270 for two nights and it took five minutes to walk from the door to the beach. Premier Inn, Travelodge and holidaycottages.co.uk are also options.
Beyond Tenby: Caldey Island and Folly Farm
Caldey Island is one of Britain's holy islands, with a monastic presence for centuries. Its white, Italianate-style monastery was built in 1906. Roaming the island, you will pass horses grazing in fields and a functioning chocolate factory where you can buy a bar. Boats run regularly from Tenby's harbour.
Folly Farm, 15 minutes from Tenby by car, has evolved to keep families entertained for hours. I have spent a day there more than once with my children. It has animals ranging from lions, rhinos and penguins to goats, pigs and rabbits, plus indoor and outdoor play areas. Folly Farm also now has new accommodation, from luxury lodges, one overlooking the rhino compound, to glamping, cottages and touring pitches. An endangered baby rhino arrived at Folly Farm in 2025.
Pembrokeshire's coast and countryside
Pembrokeshire has an unreasonable number of beautiful beaches. Barafundle has been named the best in the UK and among the best in Europe, and Whitesands, Freshwater East and Freshwater West could all claim to be among the finest. You can walk to Barafundle from Bosherston, passing peaceful lily ponds en route.
Nearby, St Govan's Head is home to St Govan's chapel, built into the cliff face in the 13th or 14th century, with waves crashing below. This corner of Pembrokeshire also includes the Stackpole nature reserve, while further north are the rolling Preseli Hills.
History is scattered across the landscape, from the Pentre Ifan Neolithic burial chamber, where our ancestors buried their dead in tombs such as this, to Carew Castle, which stands above tidal waters where the Carew river meets the channel. The view changes dramatically with the tides. The castle is great for exploring, and the walls around the nearby tidal mill are perfect for crabbing - drop in your net and bait and you are all but guaranteed to pull out a crab. There are two village pubs right next to the castle car park.
