The seaside village of Portreath on Cornwall's north coast has long been associated with the "Portreath Pong," a smell partly caused by rotting seaweed that has even led some locals to abandon their own beach. Despite this, a visit to the village in August revealed an idyllic spot that remains popular with visitors.
Visiting the Village
Arriving at Portreath Car Park, just a short distance from the beach and harbour, shortly after midday, there was a noticeable number of vehicles parked up. They had not been deterred by the infamous smell. Stepping out of the car, the visitor crept towards the seawall in anticipation of an awful stench.
Although there was a slightly unpleasant scent, which became increasingly potent closer to the beach, what struck the visitor more was how idyllic the area was. The soft sandy beach, set in a deep valley tucked between rugged cliffs, offered beautiful views out to sea, as well as a charming harbour with a stream running down the edge of the sand.
The Cause of the Smell
The 'Portreath Pong' has been around for decades, as one resident told the visitor, and is believed to be caused by several factors. The first is rotting seaweed, which is worse during the hot summer months. Locals say seaweed washes up onto the beach and gets trapped in the unique shape of the inner harbour before decomposing in the warm weather, creating a stagnant stench.
More concerningly, other residents reported local sewage overflows and claimed that wastewater infrastructure repeatedly discharges untreated sewage into the sea and local streams. This contributes to the raw sewage smells in and around the beach and harbourside.
An Idyllic Spot Despite the Smell
The smell was found to be most intense around the harbour walls and certain drainage paths, while areas farther back in the village or along the surrounding cliff walks were free of any smell. Some locals said it has become so off-putting that they now avoid the beach and sea altogether.
However, in the visitor's opinion, it is not a reason to avoid Portreath. The village has so much more going for it, being a peaceful and less-touristy village compared to other hotspots along the Cornish north coast. It seemed to boast a genuine local community rather than feeling like an over-commercialised resort.
The pretty beach, which features rock pools for children to play in, is a perfect place to relax and swim. It is also popular among surfers and bodyboarders, who chase "The Vortex" reef break next to the harbour wall. Away from the beach, there are a number of dramatic coastal walks for hikers, with some heading west towards Hell's Mouth, offering sweeping views out to sea and opportunities to spot seals.
Cyclists can also explore the old narrow harbour and former mineral tramway lines, now converted into the Coast to Coast cycle path, running from Portreath on the North coast to Devoran on the South coast. The village itself is compact and highly accessible, with a number of pubs, cafes and bakeries clustered within a short walk of each other and the beach. The visitor was struck by Portreath's laid-back atmosphere, where people effortlessly drifted between a stroll along the beach, a pint of beer and a coffee by the sea, and said it is a place they would return to in a heartbeat.
