I make the journey to Tenby at least once a year and feel everyday pressures dissolve the moment I arrive. The town has everything that defines an outstanding seaside location: beaches, independent shops, history, and excellent pubs, cafes and restaurants.
Tenby recently secured a place among Britain's finest seaside towns and villages after research involving more than 5,000 people by consumer advocate Which?. The publication awarded Tenby maximum marks for its waterfront, landscape and coastal areas. It wasn't the only Welsh coastal spot in the top 30 – Portmeirion, St David's, Conwy and Llandudno also featured.
I've explored all these locations and, while undeniably charming, Tenby holds a special distinction. Its combination of natural and architectural splendour, the standard of visitor experiences, four distinct beaches all reachable on foot from the town centre, and its role as a gateway to one of the planet's most breathtaking regions make it essential viewing. An autumn long weekend with friends has become a yearly tradition, and I try to spend at least one more weekend there in summer, when it truly shines.
A town transformed
Once synonymous with faded coastal charm and stag and hen parties, Tenby in 2026 brilliantly combines its natural attractions with a vibrant town centre full of independent shops, eateries and bars. Its heritage spans centuries, with much of the town centre built around narrow lanes and alleyways enclosed by striking medieval walls. Accommodation ranges from hotels and B&Bs to Airbnbs, and finding somewhere within easy walking distance of the key attractions should not prove difficult.
Four beaches within minutes
Tenby has four beaches all near the town centre – North and South Beach are expansive stretches of sand with wide open spaces at low tide and exhilarating waves at high tide. At North Beach, a jagged outcrop of rock emerges from the sand, offering wonderful rock pooling when the tide retreats. Between the two larger beaches are Harbour Beach, where the fishing fleet moors, and Castle Beach, tucked between two rocky outcrops, one topped by a striking clifftop fort.
How to spend the day
Begin with breakfast or coffee and cake at one of the town centre's many cafés. Options include Fuchsia and Loafley Bakery and Deli, but the standout is Stowaway – compact and built into an archway beneath a seafront street, positioned directly above the water, it serves coffee and cake and feels wonderfully snug on a breezy day.
After breakfast, head to one of the four beaches, weather permitting. All are within easy walking distance of the town centre and each other, so a change of scenery is never far away. Depending on the tides, some beaches break up further, leaving you feeling as though you've found your own private stretch of sand – though keep an eye on the tide to avoid being cut off, as stone steps provide access to safety in several spots.
For lunch, tuck into fish and chips from Fecci's or Pipers, or pick up a lobster roll or crab sandwich from a small stall just above the harbour. Afterwards, explore the independent shops stocking books, clothing, artwork and homeware. In the afternoon, hop aboard a boat to Caldey Island, where another stunning, largely deserted beach with almost white sand awaits, before discovering the tranquil island on foot. Highlights include an Italianate-style monastery built in 1906 and a 13th-century church, plus vast stretches of unspoilt island.
Come evening, Tenby's pubs and restaurants are well worth exploring. Harbwr is a pub operated by the brewery of the same name, offering hearty pub grub alongside its own craft beers. The Hope and Anchor is a gastropub focusing on fresh seafood. Tap and Tân prepares meat over open flames as you order, and Top Joe's serves outstanding pizza. Plantagenet House offers a more refined experience, with scallops and lamb inside a distinctive yellow restaurant tucked down a historic alleyway. Plenty of other options exist, including several Indian restaurants.
Where to stay
Tenby has a considerable selection of hotels, B&Bs and Airbnbs, many along the celebrated clifftops overlooking the sea. The Imperial Hotel is among the most striking, rising dramatically from the rocks above the water – it genuinely couldn't be any closer to the cliff edge. Numerous other hotels enjoy elevated sea views; stroll along the seafront streets in the morning and glance upwards to see guests gazing out across the water.
Alternatively, stay in one of the grand Victorian properties that punctuate Tenby's skyline, such as Whistler House, where the patio and glass-fronted balcony can reasonably claim one of the finest panoramas in Wales. I've stayed there several times. Tenby's compact nature means even without a sea view you're never far from the water. A modest apartment away from the seafront was booked through Booking.com for £270 for two nights, and was a five-minute stroll from door to beach. Standard chains such as Premier Inn and Travelodge are also available, and holidaycottages.co.uk is another option.
Beyond Tenby: Caldey Island and Folly Farm
Caldey Island is a genuinely extraordinary destination and ranks among Britain's most celebrated holy islands. Monastic communities have been here for centuries, with their current residence a stunning, whitewashed Italianate-style monastery built in 1906. The 13th-century St Illtyd's Church is also on the island, and the real pleasure lies in wandering from one end to the other, past horses grazing in fields and a working chocolate factory where you can buy a bar. Boats sail frequently from Tenby's harbour and you disembark at a deserted beach of almost-white sand that wouldn't look out of place in the Caribbean.
Just 15 minutes from Tenby by car, Folly Farm has adapted over time to keep families occupied for hours. It features animals from lions, rhinos and penguins to goats, pigs and rabbits, and multiple well-kept play areas inside and out. An endangered baby rhino arrived at Folly Farm in 2025. The attraction has also introduced new accommodation, from luxury lodges (one overlooks the rhino compound) to glamping, cottages and touring pitches.
Pembrokeshire's beaches and history
Pembrokeshire has an extraordinary number of stunning beaches. Barafundle was recently crowned the best in the UK. Whitesands, Freshwater East and Freshwater West can similarly claim to be among the finest. Barafundle is reached on foot from Bosherston, passing stunning, tranquil lily ponds. Nearby sits the wild, windswept St Govan's Head, featuring St Govan's Chapel, carved into the cliff face in the 13th or 14th century, with powerful waves pounding beneath. This corner of Pembrokeshire also encompasses the Stackpole nature reserve, while travelling northwards reveals the stark beauty of the undulating Preseli Hills.
Pembrokeshire's history is also reflected in man-made landmarks such as the Pentre Ifan burial chamber, originating from Neolithic times, and several castles including Carew Castle, which towers above tidal waters. The substantial tidal range means dramatically different scenes depending on arrival time. The castle is excellent to explore, while the walls around the adjacent tidal mill provide fantastic crabbing spots – simply lower your baited net and you're virtually certain to catch a crab. Two village pubs are conveniently located beside the castle car park.
