Sardinian travel writer Claudia Tavani, founder of Strictly Sardinia, has visited more than nine Italian islands, including Sicily, Sardinia, San Pietro, Sant'Antioco, La Maddalena, Caprera, Tavolara, Stromboli and Vulcano. Her favourite, she says, is San Pietro, off the southwest coast of Sardinia. She visits all the time and recently returned.
An island with a distinct cultural identity
Foreigners hardly know about San Pietro, but Sardinians love it. Culturally, it feels quite different from Sardinia. Its main and only town, Carloforte, was founded in the 18th century by the Tabarchini – Ligurian families whose ancestors had settled on the Tunisian island of Tabarka. That history remains alive: locals speak Tabarchino, an old Ligurian dialect, and the island's food combines Ligurian, Sardinian and North African influences. The town resembles Genoa, with scenic caruggi, or narrow alleys with colourful buildings.
Food and tuna traditions
Food is one of Tavani's main reasons for returning. Carloforte has an extraordinary tuna-fishing tradition, famous for the mattanza that typically takes place in June, a centuries-old ritual for trapping and harvesting Mediterranean blue-fin tuna. During tuna season, many of the island's excellent seafood restaurants offer dishes where tuna is the main ingredient. Other local specialities include cascà, the Carloforte version of couscous.
The atmosphere in San Pietro changes dramatically with the seasons. In summer, Carloforte and the rest of the island are incredibly lively, popular with holidaymakers from southern Sardinia, yet surprisingly little known to international visitors. Tavani was there in early August and took a boat tour around the island. Despite it being the peak of the Italian summer season, they saw only a fraction of the number of boats you would encounter around heavily visited places such as La Maddalena.
Weather, beaches and getting there
Beyond food and culture, San Pietro has beautiful beaches, impressive cliffs, salt pans and spectacular sunset viewpoints. Strong winds are very common and part of the experience. Tavani recommends giving yourself plenty of time on the island; she only managed the boat tour after years of trying and having it cancelled because of the wind. She has also visited outside the summer season, when it becomes much quieter but remains pleasant. That is one of the reasons she keeps going back: it is not a place she associates only with beaches or a summer holiday.
San Pietro lies off the south-western coast of mainland Sardinia, about 50 miles from Cagliari. Ferries to Carloforte leave from Portovesme and Calasetta; the first takes about 40 minutes, the second 30 minutes. There are several daytime sailings, approximately every hour, and a night service only from Calasetta.
