Rhodes, the fourth-largest Greek island, surprises visitors with its lush greenery, scenic hiking trails, and traditional tavernas, all set against the dazzling blue Aegean Sea. Unlike Crete or Mykonos, about 40% of Rhodes is covered in pine forest, cypress, and Mediterranean scrub, giving it an unexpected verdant character.
Summit Views and Secluded Beaches
Hiking guide George Thyris leads treks up Mount Akramitis, the island's second-highest peak. From the top, the Aegean stretches out more than 800 meters below, with archaeological sites and vineyards dotting the landscape. The ascent passes a 15th-century chapel tucked into the hillside.
Descending toward Fourni Beach, a golden-sand cove remains blissfully uncrowded, with just a few locals and a quirky beach kantina serving inexpensive snacks and iced coffee. The electric-blue sea offers a perfect reward after the climb.
Wine Country and Local Flavors
Inland, Embonas sits at the heart of Rhodes' wine country. The traditional taverna Savvas, capable of hosting over 1,000 guests, serves hearty dishes like moussaka, stuffed vine leaves, and slow-cooked lamb, all in a deeply local atmosphere.
Back in Rhodes Old Town, the In Camera Art Boutique Hotel provides a homely yet sophisticated base within the medieval labyrinth. The UNESCO-listed Old Town buzzes with bars and restaurants that stay lively until dawn.
Lindos and Its Ancient Acropolis
Lindos, Rhodes' most famous village, captivates with whitewashed houses and donkey-filled alleyways. Climbing to the 4th-century BC Acropolis rewards visitors with sweeping views over St Paul's Bay. The ruins of the Temple of Athena Lindia sit dramatically on the clifftop.
At Mavrikos, a family-run restaurant founded in 1912, owner Michalis Mavrikos explains how his grandfather brought cosmopolitan influences from Europe. Dishes like sardines on toast with chilli marmalade and calamari with beetroot purée arrive like works of art, with local olive oil flowing freely.
Coastal Adventures and Evening Charm
Lindos Speed Boats offers a chance to explore sea caves, rocky headlands, and hidden blue lagoons where the water is so clear it seems unreal. In the Old Town, Swan by Kontiki provides a sleek floating bar contrast to ancient windmills, while Nireas restaurant's owner Theo Tsikis shares stories of growing up in the Old Town, including a WWII bomb blast that tore through his family home.
Before departing, visitors can explore the Palace of the Grand Master, rebuilt during the Italian occupation, and Café Mevlana, a 14th-century coffee house claiming to be Europe's oldest. Locals speak of an invisible energy defining Rhodes—a sense of continuity between past and present.
Practical Information
EasyJet and British Airways operate direct flights from London Gatwick to Rhodes. In Camera Art Boutique Hotel offers rooms from £180 per night. The writer was a guest of the Rhodes Hotels Association and the Greek National Tourism Organisation, but reviews remain independent.
