When a heatwave arrives in the UK, heading to the beach is an unspoken rule. Among the many beautiful spots, one stands out for its combination of shopping, great food, and sunbathing. Just 15 minutes from Edinburgh city centre lies Portobello, a seaside town with a completely different vibe from the bustling capital.
I first visited Portobello last year and was astounded I hadn't made the trip sooner. The main street is brimming with independent shops, and the chips are the best you'll ever eat. With great transport links, it's a perfect spot for those keen to stray from the beaten track.
First Impressions and the Beach
The bus ride from Edinburgh city centre took just 15 minutes, dropping us right in the heart of the town. It was immediately obvious that this place was something special. Predictably, our first stop was the seafront for a relaxed walk along the shoreline. The weather was bright and crisp, refreshing after the hour-long train trip from Glasgow.
Portobello's coastline extends for two miles, featuring a Victorian-era esplanade and sweeping views over the Firth of Forth. On a sunny Sunday morning, the location was fairly bustling, with families walking and dogs charging about on the beach. The first thing that caught my eye was how spotless the beach was. It's plain to see that the residents of Portobello, or 'Porty' as it's affectionately known, take enormous pride in their surroundings.
In 2024, Portobello was crowned the second-best coastal town in the UK by JoJo Maman Bebe, and its beach has also been recognised with a Keep Scotland Beautiful award.
Dining by the Sea
After a relaxed walk along the shoreline, we built up a hearty appetite and decided to find somewhere to eat. The seafront at Portobello beach is packed with a vast selection of dining options, from enormous pizza slices at Civerino's to brunch and coffee at The Beach House. Many offer al fresco seating, letting you dine virtually on the beach itself. We decided to try Shrimp Wreck, a seafood outlet that appeared on BBC's My Million Pound Menu and has built its reputation on fish finger sandwiches, even reaching the finals of the Birds Eye Fish Finger Sandwich Awards in 2017.
Unsurprisingly, I went for the fish finger sandwich, and it's easy to understand the hype. Battered flaky fish fillets, mushy peas, and the best chips I've ever had, all served in a soft roll, made for perhaps the messiest meal I could have chosen, but I wouldn't change a thing.
Exploring the High Street
Afterward, we ventured into the high street where our bus had dropped us off. It sits directly behind the seafront and, while not as heaving as the beach, there were still plenty of folk wandering around and a decent selection of shops open. One highlight was The Portobello Bookshop, a charming independent bookshop packed with novels, cookbooks, and more. The interior was bright, welcoming, and comfortable—the kind of venue where you could happily spend hours browsing. They also run events, including Q&As with authors, so it's worth checking their schedule.
Cove is another essential stop for gift lovers. This place was crammed with every imaginable trinket, from Jellycat toys to candles and shampoo bars, plus gorgeous cards and irresistible chocolate treats. Portobello's high street might not be the biggest, but it's undoubtedly one of the nicest I've seen. There are more food and drink spots, alongside pubs and even an Aldi, so you're hardly short of choices.
What to Do Next Time
One place we didn't get round to visiting, which I'm keen to return for, is the swim centre. Here you'll find an authentic Victorian Turkish bath, one of just 11 in the UK, plus a gym and fitness studio. This is definitely on the agenda for our next visit.
If you've never ventured to Portobello, it really is the perfect spot for a weekend break, even when it's not sunny. Its closeness to the bustling city of Edinburgh makes it ideal for fleeing the city rush and spending time eating, drinking, and relaxing by the sea.
