Palermo, the capital of Sicily, is a walkable European city where pints cost as little as £3.42, making it an ideal destination for a budget-friendly city break. Ellen Jenne, a senior writer for the Express, visited with her mother and found that the city's compact layout allows visitors to explore its rich history, stunning architecture, and incredible food entirely on foot.
Exploring Palermo on Foot
Palermo is one of those rare cities where public transport becomes completely unnecessary, as virtually everything is within comfortable walking distance. Jenne notes that visitors should be prepared to dart between buildings for shade from the blazing sun. The city boasts impressive churches, atmospheric theatres, and magnificent palazzos, including must-sees like Cattedrale di Palermo, Palazzo dei Normanni, and Teatro Massimo di Palermo. However, the authentic city reveals itself among the twisting side streets and cobblestone lanes.
No Mafia Memorial: A Sobering Experience
One of the most compelling aspects of Jenne's visit was exploring the No Mafia Memorial. While the activities and offences of the mafia are portrayed in films and television, nothing prepares you for the overwhelming number of photographs documenting the harsh reality. The connection between corrupt powerbrokers and the sinister underworld is undeniable, leaving visitors bewildered by the extent of violence. This free museum provides a perspective not found on screen.
Food and Drink: A Gastronomic Paradise
For Jenne and her mother, the primary attraction was the regional food. Endless servings of fresh seafood and handmade pasta represent a gastronomic paradise. Mercato Ballarò, a hidden alleyway brimming with stalls of meat, fish, vegetables, cheese, and fruit, is a must-visit. It's a feast for all the senses, with dazzling colours, aromas, and sounds, though it can be overwhelming as vendors hawk their wares.
For a sit-down meal, Jenne recommends Osteria Villena on Via Maqueda, where the Zuppe Di Mare (seafood stew) is packed with calamari, prawns, mussels, and cod in a San Marzano sauce. The Tonnarelli Mare Mare is also a must for pasta lovers. Every lunch and dinner sitting was completely full, indicating the restaurant's popularity. No visit to Sicily is complete without sampling swordfish, which has a distinctive flavour compared to cod or haddock, best enjoyed with caponata.
For drinks and people-watching, Enotequa on Via Maqueda offers crisp Sicilian wines, €7 (£5.99) Aperol spritzes, and a meat and cheese board for €30 (approximately £25) for two people. According to Numbeo, a bottle or pint of beer costs between €4 to €5 (£3.42 to £4.28). Jenne exclaims, "London could never!" A cannolo packed with fresh ricotta cream and topped with nuts, chocolates, and glacé fruit is a must-try dessert.
Conclusion: A Perfect Getaway
Palermo is a paradise for anyone seeking a getaway not too far from home, with glorious weather, stunning architecture, and incredible food. Despite spending only two days there, Jenne could easily have stayed much longer, still daydreaming about the seafood stew and the spritzes.
