The Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens, tucked into a pine-fringed sweep of the Athenian Riviera, delivers a tranquil Greek island getaway with the delights of the capital on its doorstep. The hotel is 30 minutes from the airport and around 40 minutes from the Acropolis, making its location a winner: close enough to dip into the thrum of Athens, yet perfectly placed for an afternoon spent with toes in the twinkling Aegean.
A serene escape with city access
Once cocooned in the hotel's particular kind of serenity, guests may find extricating themselves rather a lot of effort. Yet decisions must be made. After a serious dent in the bountiful breakfast at rooftop restaurant Mercato, designed by Martin Brudnizki, who also created the hotel's sleek, nautical interiors at one-Michelin-starred Pelagos, the day's first dilemma arises: where to settle in? Options include one of three private sandy beaches, either of the two outdoor pools, or a breezy cabana tucked along the boardwalk. For one visitor, the quieter Arion Beach won, though there is little to choose between them: each offers views of mega yachts drifting lazily across the bay and faultless service, with frozen grapes appearing at the daybed at the first sign of a bead of sweat forming.
Service is faultless across the board, with waitresses remembering coffee and juice orders each morning and a WhatsApp concierge responding to requests within minutes. A taxi into town was booked without leaving sun loungers; cigarettes appeared in a discreet envelope as guests settled in for a sundowner; and clothes were whisked away to be pressed almost as soon as a message was sent. The clientele is discerning: a jet-set crowd accustomed to getting what they want. Over cocktails at Avra, one guest had the Charcoal, made with Calle 23 tequila blanco, grapefruit and burnt rosewood extraction, and found it exceptional. The scene included chic Athenians, an elegant group of women from Istanbul, and an attractive Italian couple who return twice a year. Families are welcome too, with a small kids' club.
Dining and relaxation highlights
The resort spans 75 acres across several topsy-turvy buildings staggered along the cliff, with nine restaurants. Three were tried. A relaxing dinner next to the lapping aquamarine water at Taverna 37 was excellent, featuring traditional Greek fare including a Horiatiki salad. Poolside Helios offered pineapple & jalapeño margs, creamy guacamole, zesty ceviche and tacos. But it is the memories of Michelin-starred Pelagos that linger months later. The tasting menu (€155) had the standout caviar pasta at its centre (an extra €55 for that). Other courses include butter-soft wagyu beef with dinkel bread and mushroom puree, red mullet with beetroot tagliatelle and foie gras with poached quince, cacao nibs and amarena cherries. All in all, a completely spoiling evening.
Spa and excursions
At the spa, guests are greeted with refreshing hibiscus, orange and lemon tea, before being led to an immaculate suite with Aegean blue views. Therapists deftly work out the most stubborn of knots. Facials are by Omorovicza. There is a watersports centre, and activities range from guided private tours of the Parthenon and cruises around the nearby islands of Hydra and Spetses, to helicopter excursions to the monasteries of Meteora. Rooms start from €700 (£608) per night, including breakfast.
