Paul McAuley flew from London Heathrow to Denver with British Airways and found a city that operates on a different level, both physically and metaphorically. Perched 5,280ft above sea level, the Mile High City immediately impressed with clouds that looked like they had been lifted straight out of Toy Story.
Nature and altitude in Denver
In Denver, nature is constantly in the background. McAuley ticked off parks including Civic Center and Confluence on a 12km run that finished at Target, summing up the city's blend of outdoors and consumerism. The weather was amazing for most of the trip, with shorts, socks, and sandals the uniform until a lightning storm delayed a women's soccer match between Denver Summit FC and Seattle Reign FC.
A visit to Mount Blue Sky revealed marmots and cleaner air, with clouds again within touching distance. The night before, Lily Allen had headlined the amphitheatre, but hours later people were running, doing yoga, and lifting weights among the red rocks, showing that outdoors is a lifestyle, not an activity.
Nightlife and culture
Denver has a different relationship with going out than the UK. People can start clubbing at 6pm and be home by 1am, saving the morning. Hotel bars are busy with people simply there for drinks.
The River North Art District prides itself on being "where art is made," with street murals, new restaurants, and the Denver Central Market. McAuley noted Denver's strong sense of itself, described by a tour guide as "a blueberry sitting proudly in a bowl of raspberries."
Sports and the Broncos experience
Denver has one NFL team, and the Broncos fanbase has a waiting list stretching around 20 years for season tickets. At the game against the Jacksonville Jaguars, a white horse, fireworks, 28 cheerleaders, and a remix of Take Me Home, Country Roads preceded the action. The noise was so loud the game had to stop for a "fan assistant" timeout. The stadium, Empower Field at Mile High, is largely owned by the Walton family and has hosted Taylor Swift, The Weeknd, AC/DC, and monster trucks.
Unlike the UK, drinking is an addition to the sports experience, not intertwined with it. At Broncos games, designated drivers can enter a lottery to win a $150 gift card for staying sober. Denver is home to seven major league sports teams, including the Colorado Rockies, Colorado Rapids, Colorado Mammoth, Colorado Avalanche, Denver Broncos, Denver Nuggets, and the new Denver Summit FC.
Why Denver is worth visiting
Denver's appeal comes from the collision of mountains behind skyscrapers, the NFL stadium, early-opening bars, and the sense that adventure is never far away. For a few days, it becomes easy to slip into that rhythm and forget it isn't everyday life. British Airways and United Airlines fly direct daily from London Heathrow to Denver. Rooms at Limelight Denver start from £150 per night, excluding taxes and fees, based on two sharing a Deluxe King room.
