Kenton Cool, a 52-year-old mountaineer from Bibury in the Cotswolds, has reached the summit of Mount Everest for the 20th time, breaking his own record for the most ascents by a non-Sherpa guide. Cool, who was told he would never walk again after shattering both heel bones in a 1996 climbing accident, described the achievement as remarkable.
Speaking to reporters as he flew out of the mountain to Kathmandu on Sunday, Cool said he was not ready to retire and might attempt the peak "maybe another two or three more times." Last year, he had suggested he would only climb Everest once more before switching to smaller peaks.
Cool was among hundreds of climbers and Sherpa guides who scaled the 8,849-metre summit in recent days, despite delays caused by a dangerous serac hanging over the route. The hazard forced climbers to attempt the summit during a short weather window, leading to crowding at the top. On Wednesday, a record 274 climbers reached the summit from the southern route in Nepal.
Cool reported a smooth ascent, saying: "We had no issues. We had no crowds, we had a great summit." He reached the peak on Friday. The northern route in Tibet was closed by Chinese authorities this year, while Nepal issued permits to 494 climbers, each accompanied by a Sherpa guide.
Veteran guide Kami Rita Sherpa suggested limiting climber numbers due to crowding, but Cool disagreed, arguing the focus should be on climber experience and knowledge. "It is the various companies being a little more diligent on who they take, so they are making sure there is the experience of the climbers," he said. Nepal is considering new regulations requiring climbers to demonstrate experience, but currently only a $15,000 permit fee is needed.
