Tom Kerridge, the Michelin-starred chef known for transforming pub classics at The Hand and Flowers in Marlow, has become a prominent voice on the challenges facing the hospitality industry. In a recent interview, he detailed the financial pressures forcing many venues to close and shared his approach to cooking venison, a meat he insists is not just for autumn.
The Hospitality Crisis
Kerridge highlighted that the industry is facing unprecedented financial strain. "Six or seven years ago, a good restaurant might make 10% profit – not big numbers but you could make that work. Now, a lot of great places are making a fraction of that, and some aren't breaking even," he said. Rising food and energy costs, high business rates, and changes to minimum wage and national insurance have hit the staff-intensive sector particularly hard. "The cost of employing a young person over the last four years has gone up by a third," he noted.
He is actively campaigning to cut VAT on the sector from 20% to 10%, though he feels "there's no help, there's no cavalry coming over the hill." The pressure is corroding creativity, with 21 hospitality venues closing every week in the UK.
Venison Chilli and Cooking Tips
Kerridge's venison chilli, which features on his menu, is designed to "drive flavour into" the lean meat. He advises roasting mince "the hell out of" before adding other ingredients, a technique he says yields a flavour profile akin to barbecue or roast beef. "When you think of the flavour profile you get from a barbecue, or the outside bits of roast beef – that's the bit everyone likes. And that's what you'll get from this ragu," he explained.
The dish combines slow-braised venison haunch with a spiced mince ragu, finished with dark chocolate, red wine, and lime zest. Kerridge also champions the cast-iron pan as his favourite utensil, calling it "absolutely chef-proof" and "indestructible."
