Sardines, once a cheap store-cupboard staple, are fast becoming a luxury food item. Demand is accelerating just as Morocco’s sardine stock has collapsed, causing shortages on supermarket shelves.
From Viral Trend to Supermarket Shortage
Last year, #SardineGirlSummer saw influencers promoting the health benefits of sardinemaxxing, while sardinecore became a must-have fashion trend. The viral popularity has driven demand upwards at a time when supply is faltering.
The Guardian travelled to Matosinhos in Portugal, the cultural home of the sardine industry, to investigate who is profiting from the boom and how it has affected local fishermen.
Sustainability in an Era of Global Heating
The report examines what sustainability looks like in an era of global heating, as the industry faces the twin pressures of rising demand and collapsing stocks.
The investigation highlights the impact on local fishing communities and the broader implications for the future of the sardine trade.



