After visiting more than 100 vineyards across the globe, one stands out as the destination worth returning to: Gaia, on the Greek island of Santorini. The winery, founded in 1994 by Yiannis Paraskevopoulos and Leon Karatsalos, now involves two generations of both families. The columnist's tour was led by Yiannis's daughter, Lito Paraskevopoulos, whose enthusiasm brought the winery to life.
Seaside Setting and Unique History
Gaia sits on Santorini's eastern side, about 15 minutes' drive from the capital Fira and 30 minutes from Oia. It is housed in a converted early-20th-century tomato factory on the black sand of Monolithos Beach, just a few feet from the Aegean Sea. Visitors can sit under a tamarisk tree, tasting wines while sea spray hits their cheeks.
Santorini's landscape differs dramatically from the famous caldera views: black volcanic earth, pumice, and charcoal-colored beaches. The island is the remains of a volcano that erupted around 3,600 years ago.
Wines and Winemaking Techniques
Gaia's flagship wine is Thalassitis Assyrtiko, a bone-dry, fiercely fresh, intensely mineral white with a saline edge, comparable to Spanish Albariño. The winery is also known for experimenting with aging bottles 25 metres deep in the Aegean Sea, using darkness, stable temperature, and high pressure as an alternative to conventional cellar aging.
The native Assyrtiko grape thrives despite relentless sun, vicious wind, and poor soil. Santorini's vines are trained into low, circular baskets called kouloura, resembling giant birds' nests that protect grapes from harsh conditions. Because the island's sandy volcanic soils escaped phylloxera in the 19th century, vines grow ungrafted on their own roots, some reaching extraordinary ages.
Visiting Gaia
The winery does not have a dedicated restaurant but serves wine with cold platters of local delicacies like rusk bread with tomato paste, capers, Cycladic cheeses, and Santorini Fava. It is open from April 29 to October 31, midday to 8pm daily. Direct flights from UK airports including Gatwick, Heathrow, Birmingham, and Stansted take roughly 4 hours. Nearby Kamari town and other vineyards like Estate Argyros, Domaine Sigalas, and Santo Wines are worth visiting, but the columnist recommends Gaia as the top choice.
