Deep in the Albanian Alps, also known as the Accursed Mountains, a seven-day hiking challenge reveals jagged peaks, sweeping valleys and brilliant blue skies — scenery that could easily be mistaken for the Dolomites, but with barely another tourist in sight.
Albania has rapidly become one of Europe's hottest destinations, primarily for its cheap beach resorts. This year, it has also found itself in the headlines for reasons far removed from its golden sands, as a luxury development linked to Donald Trump's son-in-law Jared Kushner sparked widespread protests in the country. Yet further north, all is quiet. The Albanian Alps spill across Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro, forming a rugged wilderness of soaring limestone mountains, cavernous valleys and glacial lakes.
A week of summits and glacial swims
To escape the crowds, the writer signed up for a seven-day Balkans Three Peak Challenge, taking in some of the region's highest summits. The first target was Mount Korab, at 2,764 metres, the highest mountain in both Albania and North Macedonia. After landing in the capital Tirana, the group drove north towards the mountains, settling into a surprisingly cosy mountain lodge with comfortable alpine-style rooms instead of basic bunk rooms.
Albania remains wonderfully affordable. A local Korça beer costs roughly £1, while dinner is a feast of Albanian comfort food: flaky byrek filled with meat, cheese or spinach, stuffed peppers known as speca të mbushura, and flija, a traditional layered pancake-like dish made by baking thin layers of batter with cream or yoghurt.
Remote trails and warm hospitality
The group of 16, from the UK, US, Australia and New Zealand, set off for Korab with guide Roy Petrofski, who has climbed around the world and spent two years guiding in Alaska, but was drawn back to the Balkans, his homeland. The trail was remarkably clean, with wildflowers embroidering the slopes, wild strawberries and delicate forget-me-nots, and only a handful of other hikers. After several hours of climbing, they reached the summit of Korab, where Albania and North Macedonia unfurled beneath them. A dip in an ice-cold swimming hole was the reward, followed by another £1 beer.
That evening, the group crossed into Kosovo and spent the night in the historic town of Gjakova, home to one of the country's oldest and longest traditional bazaars. The next day brought Gjeravica, Kosovo's highest mountain at 2,656 metres. The trail got more remote, with hiking between mountain guesthouses each night. Blueberries carpeted the ground, and local women were seen picking them with young children in tow.
Weather turns back the final summit
The Accursed Mountains are dotted with high-altitude glacial pools, many of which make irresistible swimming spots. Roy told the group his Hike & Swim trips have become increasingly popular as wild swimming takes off. Temperatures were pushing into the high 20s, so the icy water was more salvation than punishment. That evening, the group arrived at the Gacaferi Guest House, run by Safete Gacaferi and her family, where a birthday in the group led to an extravagant dinner with a flavoursome rice dish so popular that several people went back for thirds.
The following day was the longest, with more than 20km of hiking ahead. Part of the route followed the Peaks of the Balkans, a 192km circular trail through the remote mountain region spanning Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro. At a shepherd's hut, a local man served coffee and blueberry cake. Then it was time for Zla Kolata, Montenegro's highest peak at 2,534 metres. Roy and fellow guide Igli Xhafaj warned the group this could be the toughest summit yet, with steep sections and scrambling near the top. But without warning, the weather changed: clouds rolled in and rain began to fall. With the summit still ahead, the guides made the sensible decision to turn the group around.
Back at the lodge, the clouds cleared and the night sky exploded with stars. The writer reflected on what she hadn't expected: such empty trails, generous hosts, extraordinary food or swimming in glacial lakes in the middle of a hiking day. Perhaps the biggest surprise was how little the region feels like a European tourist destination — for now. The writer even left her hiking shoes at the final lodge, perhaps subconsciously ensuring she has to come back for them.
