Nirmal Purja was leading an expedition of 10 climbers on Broad Peak – the world’s 12th highest mountain – in northern Pakistan when the avalanche struck at about midday on Thursday.
Following search efforts, his company Elite Exped has today confirmed Mr Purja was killed.
Elite Exped confirms deaths
In a post shared on Instagram, the company said: “Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja, tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak. We have also received confirmation that other members of this expedition sadly did not survive. Today, we mourn not only Nims, but every life lost in this tragedy including his trusted climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa.
“Our deepest thoughts, prayers and heartfelt condolences are with their families, friends and loved ones. No words can erase the pain of this unimaginable loss, and we ask that everyone respects their privacy as they grieve.”
Tributes from Bear Grylls
British adventurer Bear Grylls paid tribute to Purja, writing on Instagram: “Heartbreaking news for so many climbers around the world who had a relationship with this remarkable and unique man. We will never forget you Nims and your unstoppable spirit.”
Along with Mr Grylls, Mr Purja was enlisted by former Made in Chelsea star Spencer Matthews to help recover the body of his brother Michael, the youngest Briton to summit Everest, who disappeared on the mountain in 1999. Their efforts were captured in the documentary Finding Michael, which was released in 2023.
Record-breaking mountaineer
Mr Purja rose to prominence in 2019 when he climbed all 14 of the world’s mountains with peaks above 8,000 metres (26,247ft) in 189 days – smashing the previous record by more than seven years. The challenge was the focus of a Netflix documentary called 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.
Mr Purja, 43, powered to the top of the mountains, each with peaks in the so-called “death zone”, starting with Annapurna on April 23, 2019 and taking in Everest in May and K2 in July.
Military career and rescue
He served in the British military for 16 years, 10 of which were spent in the special forces, and he was awarded an MBE by the late Queen in 2018 for his achievement in extreme high-altitude mountaineering.
The cold weather warfare specialist said he was the first Gurkha to climb Everest while serving in the British military. In 2016, he broke mountaineering conventions to rescue a climber left in the “Everest death zone”, bringing her to safety alone.
