The Felin Fach Griffin, a countryside dining pub in the Welsh hills, has earned a place on the Good Food Guide's first-ever list of the 100 Best Pubs in Britain, and a visit confirms it lives up to the hype.
Located between the Black Mountains and Bannau Brycheiniog, this dog-friendly pub with eight rooms is part of brothers Charles and Edmund Inkin's Eat, Drink, Sleep trilogy, which also includes the Gurnard's Head and the Old Coastguard in Cornwall. The Good Food Guide describes it as an "archetypal dream of a country inn."
A Warm Welcome and Local Drinks
The pub features a cheery, dark cherry red exterior, a roaring fire, low beams, dogs, squishy sofas, colourful walls, and seasonal touches. Staff are polished but not intrusive, attentive without hovering. Drinks are priced for local trade, not just seasonal visitors, with the owners saying "London prices can remain in London."
The bar offers ales from local breweries including Brecon Brewing, Antur Brew Co., Wye Valley, Rhymney Brewery, Monty's, and Waen. There's also a robust wine list with carafes and plenty by the glass.
Seasonal Dishes from Head Chef Gwenann Davies
Head chef Gwenann Davies, previously senior sous chef at Lush by Tom Kerridge, runs the kitchen. The concise menu changes daily and seasonally, featuring ingredients from the surrounding hills, farms, and dairies, showcasing Welsh lamb, beef, game, and cheese.
Starters included white crab on a toasted crumpet with Granny Smith and pickled celery, which was bright, creamy, and fresh, and a chicken and confit leek terrine with truffle oil and raisins. Mains featured beef rump with creamed potato and bourguignon jus, perfectly pink and tender, and pork belly with barbecue apple purée, black pudding and pork fritter, and warming chilli cabbage.
Rooms and Breakfast
After dinner, guests can retire to TV-free, calm rooms with countryside chic, featuring robes, cafetiere coffee press, Roberts Radios, Bramley toiletries, homemade biscuits, and local art. Breakfast includes a Borders Breakfast, Welsh natural yoghurt, Griffin muesli, fruit from the kitchen garden, and apple juice from the Usk Valley.
Mains range from around £21 to £38, and rooms start from £185 for a double. Seasonal deals include two-night sleepover packages with supper included in spring and autumn.
