Carreg Cennen Castle, perched on a Carboniferous limestone outcrop in Carmarthenshire, has been named the 'most romantic' ruin by Countryfile magazine readers. The late 13th-century fortress, which overlooks the River Cennen, was also listed by The Telegraph as one of the best 10 castles in Wales to take children.
A Castle That Takes Your Breath Away
Set almost 300ft above the river from which it takes its name, Carreg Cennen is a medieval castle where visitors can explore the gatehouse, towers and ruined fortifications. The remote ruin offers sweeping views from the castle itself, matched only by the sight of the fortress rising above the craggy Welsh hilltop.
The castle's natural cave, reached through an atmospheric tunnel, is a key attraction. Steps in the inner ward lead down into the bowels of the castle, through a cliff-edge tunnel and into a pitch-black passage carved into the rock. According to Coflein, the online catalogue of archaeology, buildings, industrial and maritime heritage in Wales, human bones were discovered there in the early 20th century, while teeth were found as recently as 1980.
Walks, Wildlife and History
Outside the castle grounds, two signposted circular walks start at the castle's cafe. The short route is 2.7km (1.6 miles) and the long route is 6km (3.7 miles). The woodland along the way is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and is home to birds such as Wood Pigeon, Nuthatch, Blue Tit and Wren.
The castle dates back to at least the 13th century, but Roman coins discovered at the site suggest people occupied the land centuries earlier. Previous owners include Sir Rhys ap Thomas and King Edward I, who captured the castle in 1277. Edward gave the castle to John Giffard, a soldier who had supported the king in his conflict with Welsh prince Llywelyn ap Gruffudd. Giffard rebuilt Carreg Cennen into the structure that stands today.
Under English control, the castle was attacked by Owain Glyndwr in 1403 and damaged further during the War of the Roses in the 15th century. By the 19th century it was owned by the Cawdor family, until they sold it to the Morris family in 1963 'by accident'. Today it is owned by Margaret Morris and her husband Bernard Llewellyn alongside their daughters.
Homemade Cawl and Getting There
The tea room, run by the family, serves a bowl of homemade cawl - a thick veggie soup, though other areas of Wales put lamb or beef in. The cawl comes with bread and a chunk of cheese. Dishes with Carreg Cennen's Longhorn beef, reared nearby, are also available, along with cakes and hot and cold drinks.
Carreg Cennen Castle is around five miles from the town of Llandeilo and around 19 miles east of Carmarthen. From the village of Ffairfach, take a right on the A476 heading east and travel down an unmarked road until you reach the village of Trap, where signs direct you to the castle. From the M4, leave at Pont Abraham roundabout and take the A483 towards Ammanford. Travel through Tycroes and Ammanford, take a left onto Wern Ddu Road, and continue north to Blaengweche, where a signpost directs you east towards Trap.
