Silvana Armani, niece of the late Giorgio Armani, made her solo debut as creative director of womenswear at Milan Fashion Week, emphasising natural silhouettes and practicality. Her collection featured loose blazers with dropped shoulders, wide-legged trousers, and floor-sweeping coats in navy, white, khaki, and greige. The designer noted she only wears trousers, soft jackets, and shirts, avoiding frills and excessive jewellery.
Armani argued that gender matters in fashion design. 'The way women and men relate to their bodies is different, which affects the design process,' she said. 'Dressing a woman is more complex than dressing a man. Yet, as a woman, you know your body. You try things on and notice if a jacket’s length is off, adjusting it as necessary.'
The collection stayed close to Giorgio Armani's legacy but introduced more pockets, fewer skirts, and no hats. The brand remains the world's largest private luxury fashion house and is expected to be sold within a year, with LVMH, Luxottica, and L'Oréal as frontrunners. Silvana, who worked alongside her uncle for 40 years, remained unfazed, recalling his description of the company as a 'gym' that trained her.
Earlier in the week, Louise Trotter, one of the few women to break fashion's 'glass runway,' presented her first autumn collection for Bottega Veneta. The show featured giant suits with soft shoulders, swishy yeti coats in faux fur, and recycled fibreglass, inspired by Maria Callas. Trotter is the first woman to lead Bottega Veneta in over 20 years, and sales have risen 1% since she took over in December 2024.
