Paul Smith presented his latest menswear collection in Milan on Saturday evening, hosting a salon-style show at the brand's Italian headquarters. The 80-year-old designer compèred the event himself, describing each design and its inspiration over a microphone, in a format he said was inspired by shows he attended at the ateliers of Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent in the 1970s.
The collection featured bold prints, oversized suiting, and bright colours on sweaters and shirts, all hallmarks of the label. Smith explained that the designs were partly a collaboration with new design director Sam Cotton, who explored the brand's archive of 5,000 designs. Items revived included a jacket from 1999 and a rust-coloured grandad shirt originally dyed by Smith on a gas cooker.
Smith emphasised his continued hands-on role at the company, which he still owns. 'I get there at six every morning, I'm still completely involved. Nothing's changed,' he said. However, he acknowledged the brand faced a post-pandemic luxury slowdown, with turnover falling 7% in 2024, and warned that results for the current year would not be strong.
Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren, 86, also showed in Milan on Friday evening, combining his Polo and Purple labels. The brand has seen a resurgence, with sales up 11% in the first quarter of 2025, partly driven by a boom in preppy style. The show featured clothes for a wealthy Wasp lifestyle, from fleeces and rugby shirts to suits and ski wear.
