Dreaming Eli's Theatrical Corsetry Showcases Extreme Femininity at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week witnessed one of its most dramatic presentations yet as the womenswear label Dreaming Eli unveiled its autumn/winter 2026 collection, titled The Court of the Maddest, Merriest Things Alive. The show, held at the atmospheric Beaconsfield Gallery in London, was illuminated by candlelight, creating an intimate yet powerful backdrop for a collection defined by extreme corsetry, sheer lace, and towering platform heels.
A Stark Palette of Nudes and Blacks
The collection maintained a disciplined colour scheme of nude tones and stark blacks, allowing the intricate construction and tailoring to take centre stage. This deliberate limitation amplified the architectural quality of each garment, with raw-edged lace appearing coiled like twine around boned corsets. One particularly striking look featured a sheer ivory strapless corset with delicate black hook fastenings running vertically down the torso, showcasing the brand's signature blend of transparency and structure.
Political and Personal Statements Through Clothing
Founded in 2021 by Sicilian designer Elisa Trombatore, a Central Saint Martins graduate, Dreaming Eli has built its identity around clothing as both a political and personal statement. Trombatore centres her designs on themes of female empowerment, sensuality, and resilience, often drawing inspiration from her Sicilian heritage and its inherent dualities—softness versus defiance, tradition versus rebellion.
This tension was palpable throughout the show. Corsetry was left deliberately exposed, with lace panels fraying into asymmetric garter details that trailed down the legs, creating a sense of controlled unravelling. In one standout moment, a model's face was partially veiled in lace beneath a crown of thorn-like branches, lending a devotional, almost martyr-like quality to the look.
Theatrical Silhouettes and Symbolic Details
The theatricality of the collection was heightened by porcelain, doll-like makeup and towering white platform heels, evoking comparisons to John Galliano's Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 couture show. Symbolic elements, such as a model carrying an apple aloft—a subtle nod to myth and temptation—highlighted the collection's romantic folklore undertones.
Elsewhere, a sculptural cream gown paired a tightly ruched corset bodice with an exaggerated draped skirt, the volume gathered low at the hips. A sheer blush gown offered a softer counterpoint, featuring a structured corset traced with black fastenings that gave way to layers of flowing tulle and lace sleeves, with a delicate butterfly resting in the model's hair.
Feminine Strength and Vulnerability
The silhouettes were unmistakably feminine but not passive. Bustled shapes and nipped waists dominated, with corsets acting as both centrepiece and anchor—pulling the waist inward before releasing into fluid skirts or trailing panels of sheer fabric. Models emerged in lingerie-inflected looks defined by structured corsets and sheer layering, elongating the body while sculpting and at times distorting it.
Romantic draping softened the severity, with silk and chiffon cascading from tightly laced bodices. Chantilly lace and tulle were layered to create depth and movement, balancing strength and delicate sensuality. The show closed with Trombatore herself joining a model on the runway, both dressed in corseted mini silhouettes—one in black lace, the other in ivory—underscoring the collection's core message of solidarity and female strength.
Thoughtful Construction and Brand Philosophy
Dreaming Eli's pieces are made entirely in London, incorporating lace-up adjustability designed to accommodate different body shapes and extend a garment's lifespan. This emphasis on longevity and thoughtful construction aligns with Trombatore's philosophy of clothing as an evolving companion rather than disposable spectacle.
Since launching at London Fashion Week's Discovery Lab in 2021, supported by the Isabella Blow Foundation, the brand has steadily built international recognition. It now shows biannually on schedule and has dressed high-profile figures including Kylie Jenner, Lizzo, and Julia Fox. Despite its growing profile, the label retains an exclusive quality, with this collection showcasing a new assurance in editing and a cohesive narrative reinforced by the reliance on nude and black, the repetition of corseted forms, and commanding heels.
