Trillium, the latest Birmingham restaurant from Michelin-starred chef Glyn Purnell, is a refreshing departure from the usual fine-dining scene. Gone are the hushed tones and tiny courses; instead, the glass-fronted, multicoloured space buzzes with loud conversation, roaring music, and plates of indulgent food arriving thick and fast. It is, says our reviewer, a genuine attempt to translate fine dining into a semi-rowdy, upmarket setting, and Purnell has pulled it off.
The menu is packed with imaginative dishes. Starters include a battered potato scallop with soured cream (upgradeable with Sturia oscietra caviar for an extra £25), an XXL gougère filled with Montgomery cheddar and topped with gruyère and paprika, and a ‘coddled duck egg’ – two runny-yolked eggs on sourdough with smoked almond paste and truffle. The latter, listed under ‘small plates’, is surprisingly generous. Also notable is the beef carpaccio with pickled shimeji mushrooms, bresaola, and an Oxo cube made from shredded beef cheek.
Main courses shine too: vadouvan-spiced heritage carrots with lentils, coconut and yoghurt offer vegetarian brilliance, while Cornish skate is cooked perfectly with butter beans and a rich espelette sauce. The meal begins with warm milk loaf buns served with a dip of chicken fat and malt vinegar – a flavour revelation.
Service is jolly and informal; sommeliers are happy to talk orange wine but equally unruffled by orders of Aperol spritz. Trillium may not suit everyone, but its bold, silly, welcoming spirit is hard to resist. Portions are generous, and the overall feeling is one of genuine enjoyment – a rare gem in the restaurant world.
