Nirmal Purja, the Nepali-British mountaineer known as Nims, has been confirmed dead after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in northern Pakistan on Thursday. He was leading a 10-strong team on the 8,051m mountain, the world's 12th-highest peak, when the avalanche hit.
Avalanche on Broad Peak
The former British Army and Royal Marines soldier had been leading the expedition on the mountain. After the avalanche, a search got under way and several others from the group were rescued, with support from military helicopters. Purja's death was confirmed as the search continued.
Before the confirmation, Spencer Matthews, who appeared with Purja in the 2023 documentary Finding Michael, shared a photo of the mountaineer on Instagram and said he was praying "for a miracle".
Tributes from Spencer Matthews and Bear Grylls
Spencer, 37, said: "The mountains inspire us with their beauty but they also demand immense respect. Every person who ventures into that world understands the risks, yet they go anyway, driven by curiosity, purpose, passion, and a deep love for the places few will ever experience. The news from Broad Peak is heartbreaking. So many lives, families, friends and teammates now facing unimaginable loss. Our thoughts are with everyone affected by this tragedy. May those who have been lost be remembered not only for how they died, but for how they lived, the courage they showed, and the lived they touched. Rest in peace. To those not yet found, we pray for a miracle."
Bear Grylls, 52, wrote on Instagram: "Heartbreaking news for so many climbers around the world who had a relationship with this remarkable and unique man. We will never forget you Nims and your unstoppable spirit."
In the documentary Finding Michael, Purja joined Spencer and Bear Grylls in an attempt to recover the body of Spencer's brother Michael. Michael had become the youngest Briton to summit Everest, but disappeared on the mountain in 1999. Despite searching with a team, they were not able to locate him.
Record-breaking climber
Purja rose to prominence in 2019 when he climbed all 14 of the world's mountains with peaks above 8,000 metres (26,247ft) in 189 days. The feat smashed the previous record by more than seven days and became the focus of the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.
He said at the time: "It has been a gruelling but humbling six months, and I hope to have proven that anything is possible with some determination, self-belief and positivity."
Nepal's Prime Minister Balendra Shah confirmed Purja's death, saying "the tragic death of six Nepalese and four other foreign climbers, including world record holder Nirmal Purja, in the Karakoram mountain range of Pakistan, has shocked us".
In a statement, Purja's older brother Kamal said: "It is with the heaviest heart that I share the devastating news that my beloved younger brother, Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja, and the other climbers are no longer with us. Although our hearts are broken, we are incredibly proud of you. Your legacy will live forever."
