Mountaineer Nirmal Purja, who served in the British Army and featured in a Netflix documentary, has died after an avalanche struck his expedition on Broad Peak in northern Pakistan, his company Elite Exped has confirmed.
The 43-year-old Nepalese climber was leading a team of 10 on the world’s 12th highest mountain when the avalanche hit at around midday on Thursday. Following search efforts, Elite Exped said his death had been confirmed.
Company confirms death
In a post on Instagram, the company wrote: “Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja, tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak. We have also received confirmation that other members of this expedition sadly did not survive.
“Today, we mourn not only Nims, but every life lost in this tragedy including his trusted climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa.
“Our deepest thoughts, prayers and heartfelt condolences are with their families, friends and loved ones. No words can erase the pain of this unimaginable loss, and we ask that everyone respects their privacy as they grieve.”
Tributes
British adventurer Bear Grylls also paid tribute, writing on Instagram: “Heartbreaking news for so many climbers around the world who had a relationship with this remarkable and unique man. We will never forget you Nims and your unstoppable spirit.”
Purja had been enlisted by former Made in Chelsea star Spencer Matthews to help recover the body of his brother Michael, the youngest Briton to summit Everest, who disappeared on the mountain in 1999. Their efforts were captured in the documentary Finding Michael, released in 2023.
Earlier on Saturday, Matthews said he was praying “for a miracle”. Sharing a photo with Purja on Instagram, he described the news from Broad Peak as “heartbreaking”. The 37-year-old Matthews wrote: “The mountains inspire us with their beauty but they also demand immense respect.
“Every person who ventures into that world understands the risks, yet they go anyway, driven by curiosity, purpose, passion and a deep love for the places few will ever experience.
“The news from Broad Peak is heartbreaking. So many lives, families, friends and teammates now facing unimaginable loss. Our thoughts are with everyone affected by this tragedy. May those who have been lost be remembered not only for how they died, but for how they lived, the courage they showed, and the lived they touched. Rest in peace. To those not yet found, we pray for a miracle.”
Record-breaking career
Purja rose to prominence in 2019 when he climbed all 14 of the world’s mountains with peaks above 8,000 metres (26,247ft) in 189 days, smashing the previous record by more than seven years. The challenge was the focus of a Netflix documentary called 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.
He powered to the top of the mountains, each with peaks in the so-called “death zone”, starting with Annapurna on April 23, 2019 and taking in Everest in May and K2 in July.
Military and rescue
Purja spent 16 years in the British military, 10 of which were in the special forces, and was awarded an MBE by the late Queen in 2018 for his achievement in extreme high-altitude mountaineering. The cold weather warfare specialist said he was the first Gurkha to climb Everest while serving in the British military.
In 2016, he broke mountaineering conventions to rescue a climber left in the “Everest death zone”, bringing her to safety alone.
