Johnny Boy's, Julian Denis's latest restaurant venture on Northwold Road in Stoke Newington, promises an LA-inspired diner experience with Mexican flair. For a Southern Californian reviewer, the illuminated Coca-Cola signage and the intoxicating smell of fryers and carne asada on the grill evoke strong memories of home. The smooth Formica tabletops, rough grooves in amber plastic water cups, and the soundtrack of Connie's "Funky Little Beat" all contribute to an atmosphere that feels authentic rather than merely aesthetic.
A Sensory Experience That Falls Short on Flavour
Despite the carefully considered sensory details, the food does not live up to the promise. On a first visit, the breakfast burrito with sausage gravy, pico de gallo, scrambled eggs, and tater tots is beautifully girthy, but oddly sweet, though the spicy salsa balances it out. The service is sparse and not very warm, possibly due to teething issues.
A second dinner visit reveals more inconsistencies. The chilli cheese fries feature beef chilli with great texture and generous portions, but the flavour is bland, the cheese sauce is neither here nor there, and the chips are undercooked and firm in the middle. The carne asada plate, featuring grilled bavette steak with Mexican red rice, refried pinto beans, and soft corn tortillas, comes with the classic pepper, onion, and carrot pickles served gratis at SoCal Mexican restaurants, but the meat is tough, chewy, and not seasoned well enough.
Highlights and Missed Opportunities
The potato and chorizo taquitos lack seasoning, and at £17, the reviewer is not convinced they are worth the money. The highlight of the meal is the crab tostada: white crab, generous and seasoned to perfection, creamy and light, with julienned radishes adding a nice crunch atop a perfectly fried corn tostada. The buttery club cracker is perfectly observed and appreciated, as there is so much crab that more crunch is needed to finish it.
Throughout both visits, the music choices are brilliant, with tracks like "When I Hear Music" by Debbie Deb and "Two of Hearts" by Stacie Q. However, the service needs a lift, and the food does not yet live up to the immigrant-run, Mexican establishments it models itself on. Johnny Boy's has a way to go before it sparkles with the sun-drenched ease of its predecessors and inspirations.
