The Hafod Hotel, a historic stone-clad property in the Welsh village of Pontarfynach, also known as Devil's Bridge, offers guests a base for exploring 300ft waterfalls and a nearby award-winning chocolate shop. The hotel, which featured in the Welsh TV drama Hinterland, sits at the head of the Rheidol Valley, a short distance from Aberystwyth.
Historic origins and royal visitors
Originally built as a hunting lodge in the 1700s, the property was extended and remodelled into a Swiss-style chateau in the 19th century for the owner of the Hafod estate. It was refurbished again in 2016, retaining its charm despite modern upgrades. The hotel adjoins the famous Devil's Bridge, three vertically stacked bridges that overlook the Mynach waterfalls and a wooded gorge.
According to Bangor University, Devil's Bridge has attracted tourists since the late 1700s. Local landowner Thomas Johnes built a roadside hunting lodge in 1787. In 1839, Sir Henry Houghton transformed it into the Hafod Arms Hotel, named after the nearby Hafod Uchdryd estate. Notable guests included Carl Carus and Friedrich August II, King of Saxony, who stopped in to warm up by the fire during a downpour.
Renovation and modern amenities
In 2016, Nicol and Dewi Gwynne bought the hotel, aiming to replicate the success of their other property, the Cross Foxes Inn near Dolgellau, Eryri. They renovated the hotel to a high standard, and it now operates as a traditional country hotel with en-suite guest bedrooms, a restaurant, a bar, and a terrace.
A recent visit included arrival via the Vale of Rheidol narrow-gauge railway, a heritage route connecting Aberystwyth to Devil's Bridge. The suite featured a king-size bed, a private sitting area, WiFi, a Monsoon shower, complimentary toiletries, and tea-and-coffee-making facilities. The hotel's brasserie serves Welsh classics and pub food, including local trout, Welsh Ale-Battered Haddock, lamb pie, and the Devil's Beast Burger, described as a towering burger with beef patty, house sauce, and hand-cut chips.
Waterfalls and local attractions
The hotel's proximity to the Devil's Bridge Waterfalls is a key feature. The attraction has a turnstile entrance where visitors can pay in cash or by card. Two walks are available: the shorter Punchbowl walk and the longer Nature Trail, both circular and taking about 45 minutes. The Nature Trail offers views of the 'three bridges' and the 300ft waterfalls, reached via 675 steep, uneven natural stone steps.
Nearby, Sarah Bunton's chocolate shop offers Welsh chocolates and fudge produced since 2009. Bunton sells her chocolates at Christmas markets and festivals across Wales, and her products are stocked in several stores. The Hafod Estate also offers waymarked paths, including the Lady's Walk and the more adventurous Ystwyth Gorge walk. Rooms at the hotel start from £145.
