St Albans in Hertfordshire was recently crowned the third best place to live in the UK by property experts Garrington, but one visitor found the reality disappointing.
The historic cathedral city of 90,000 people sits roughly 20 miles north of London, offering a quick commute alongside charming countryside. It is widely regarded as a prosperous and desirable commuter town, with an average house price of just shy of £900,000.
A city of ancient origins
St Albans traces its roots back to the Roman settlement of Verulamium, founded in the 1st century AD, which became one of the largest towns in Roman Britain. It was a key centre for trade and governance, with temples, bathhouses and a theatre, and portions of the Roman walls and mosaics remain visible today, particularly around Verulamium Park.
The city takes its name from St Alban, considered Britain's first Christian martyr, who was executed for sheltering a Christian priest. A shrine built in his honour became St Albans Cathedral, the oldest site of continued Christian worship in the UK and home to the longest nave in England.
A disappointing visit
Despite the city's reputation, Express writer Sophie Harris found her visit earlier this year a letdown. She wrote: "Considering its outstanding reputation, I'd expected something significantly more polished, yet parts of the town centre seemed notably tired. Some roads looked particularly run-down, while the uneven pavements made walking around far less pleasant than I'd hoped."
She added: "The town was also absolutely packed, which added to a sense of chaos rather than charm, and finding a parking space proved much harder than anticipated. This could have been because it was market day."
Mixed dining and strong shopping
Breakfast at The Ivy disappointed, with Sophie describing "slow service and mediocre food" at a restaurant she had previously loved. However, other spots impressed, including Japes, where she said the pizza was "truly outstanding," and Knoops for an indulgent hot chocolate.
Shopping also delivered. Sophie noted: "When it comes to venues for food, beverages and shopping, the town certainly delivers, as it does with its historic attractions. It's also challenging to dismiss completely a location featuring shops such as Anthropologie, Oliver Bonas and Space NK – those three alone usually suggest a decent shopping spot. However, despite that, I'm not sure I'd be eager to visit again anytime soon."
St Albans was named the best commuter town in the country in 2024, and locals affectionately call the fast rail link to St Pancras the Shinkansen or Bullet Train of Hertfordshire. As autumn leaves fall and rooftops frost over, the city offers medieval streets, boutique shops, cosy pubs and a 1,000-year-old market for short breaks.
