In the tiny northern village of Umm Qais, on the border of Syria, Israel and Lebanon, Maher and Rufaida Kiwan have built a new life. They fled Syria with nothing but a backpack and a pair of underwear each, and now run a tourism business from their home. “We’re proud of ourselves that we’ve worked hard to build our lives, our home, our business,” Rufaida says as she serves a feast of baba ganoush, tahini and bamia.
Jordan’s “Golden Triangle” of Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea attracts millions of visitors each year. But the country’s tourism industry has been severely impacted by its proximity to Gaza and Israel. Petra received just 457,215 visitors in 2024, down from 1.15 million in 2023. From January to August 2025, only 291,169 visited. The downturn has left gift shops empty and hotels shuttered.
Yet there are signs of recovery. Figures up to February 2026 show a three per cent increase in UK visitors compared to the previous year, according to the Jordan Tourism Board. And tour operators are looking beyond the famous sites. G Adventures has launched 12 new trips in Jordan in the past 12 months, including a 10-day Active Adventure that visits lesser-known areas such as the Dana Biosphere Reserve and Umm Qais.
“We want to address the concept of overtourism, and spread the wealth of travel to more communities,” says Yves Marceau, Vice President of Product at G Adventures. The company’s new itinerary includes community-run projects like Beit Khayrat, where visitors can experience local hospitality and culture.
For the Kiwan family, tourism has been transformative. “When we came from Syria, each one of us had a backpack and a pair of underwear,” Maher recalls. “We came with nothing.” Now, their home is a stop on a journey that shows how venturing beyond the Golden Triangle can benefit both travellers and the communities they visit.
