Twenty-one years after volunteering in Sri Lanka following the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami, a return visit reveals a transformed coastline, world-class resorts, and the enduring warmth of its people. The author, who helped build houses for over 20 families in the months after the disaster, found Hikkaduwa almost unrecognisable, with hotels and restaurants stretching further towards the coast and permanent structures replacing makeshift buildings.
A Changed Coastline, Familiar Memories
Walking along Galle Road, a familiar shop front stirred memories of the summer of 2005. The shopkeeper, likely too young to remember the volunteers, showed the author around the modest, windowless room where he once lived. A serendipitous encounter followed when a Tuk-Tuk driver named Vamil recognised him, inviting him to meet his family for sweet tea and cake.
The author's previous visit was spent as a hod carrier, cement mixer, and passer of bricks. By the time he left, some houses were just getting roofs, while others were still flat imprints. Over the next two years, Lassana Gama ('Beautiful Village') gained electricity and families moved in from UN tent camps. With Vamil translating, the author reminisced with villagers about food and games of cricket fashioned from sticks and stones.
From Latrines to Luxury Resorts
The author recalled the arduous labour of digging latrines 10ft down in clay and carrying bricks, cement, and timber up a steep hill in the jungle about three miles inland. This time, the visit was a reunion rather than an eight-hour construction day. The warmth of the welcome made him feel guilty for waiting so long to return, prompting him to book the inaugural British Airways flight when direct routes from the UK relaunched.
Landing in Colombo felt like coming home, unlike the culture shock of 2005. The familiar humidity, smiles, and Sinhala script all played a part. Progress was evident in the new highway from Colombo to Tangalle, where the author stayed at the luxurious Anantara resort, a stark contrast to his student days when the only air conditioning came from hanging out of a train door.
Wildlife and Culinary Delights
At Yala National Park, there were no shortage of elephants and water buffalo, and the author was treated to sightings of a couple of sloth bears, but no leopards. Heading north to Anantara Kalutara, he enjoyed a traditional Sri Lankan curry cooking lesson and a dinner of lobster-sized prawns and fillet steak.
The author timed his return with the height of the monsoon season, made heavier by Cyclone Arnab stalling in the Bay of Bengal. Reflecting on the heavier storms Sri Lanka has weathered – natural disasters, conflict, and severe economic hardship – he noted that none of it has eroded the spirit of the 'Island of Gems'. The infrastructure is transformed and luxury is world-class, but the soul of the place – the people, unprompted smiles, and sweet tea – remains intact.
British Airways Holidays offers seven nights at the 5* Anantara Kalutara from £2,589 per person, and at the 5* Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle from £2,569 per person, on selected dates between 1 March and 31 March 2027. Both include economy return flights from London Gatwick, one checked bag at 23kg, and accommodation with breakfast, with bookings by 30 November 2026.
