Cemaes, the most northerly village in Wales, sits at the top of Anglesey, offering a tranquil beach, stunning clifftop walks, and two ice cream shops. The secluded harbour spot is a beautiful journey to reach, whether via Holyhead or along the Eastern coastline of the isle. Even on the sunniest days, visitors are likely to find much of the place to themselves.
Beach and coastal walks
Much of the coastline here is owned by the National Trust, with paths offering scenic views. The Penrhyn Mawr path just off the beach leads past an ancient church, the oldest and most northernly in Wales, and offers views of rugged rocks along the coast.
For families, Traeth Mawr beach at Cemaes provides plenty for younger kids, with soft white sands and an assortment of quirky caves and coves to explore around the edges. There is a host of interesting and colourful rocks on the beach too, while at the heart of it is a striking sculpture that is something of a conversation piece.
St Patrick's Bell and local ice cream
Looking quite alien-like on first glance, the sculpture is St Patrick's Bell, a time and tide bell created by sculptor Marcus Vergette. Such bells are found around the coast of Great Britain and are rung by the waves when high tide approaches. The Cemaes Time and Tide Bell was installed in 2014, one of 11 the artist has so far created in the UK. Each community has chosen their own inscription on the bell, and in Cemaes it is a poem by Glyndwr Thomas.
There is a car park right next to the beach as well as public toilets, while one of the two ice cream shops in the village can be found just close to the beach. The beach hut boasts Licio Gelato, which signs proudly boast is "hand made by us" using local milk from Nant Farm Cemaes. Flavours like bubblegum, pear and biscoff are available by the scoop. Venture further up and there's a pretty row of shops in the village itself, including a chippy and another ice cream parlour in a pretty pink-washed building, showcasing Anglesey Ice Cream.
The local Titanic hero
Venture along to the harbourside in Cemaes, and you'll find a striking monument to one of this village's true heroes. Fittingly shaped like the bow of a ship, it bears a large black plaque dedicated to Able Seaman Thomas William Jones. Affectionately remembered as "Tom Titanic", he was born in the village at Number 4 Sea View Cottages in 1877, with a plaque also now on his former home.
As a worker for the White Star Line, he was on board the legendary RMS Titanic, dubbed the unsinkable ship, on its doomed maiden voyage to New York on the night of April 14, 1912. When the ship hit an iceberg and began to sink, Tom was put in charge of one of the first lifeboats off the ship, which, as history has documented, were not filled to capacity with 35 passengers on board. Tom commanded the lifeboat, with assistance from Lucy Noel Martha, the Countess of Rothes.
As the plaque recalls: "Tom decided he wished to go back to save more passengers as there was room for 64 people on the lifeboat. He asked for a vote in favour, however the majority voted against." Tom is remembered for his courageous words: "Ladies if any of us are saved, remember, I would rather drown with them than leave them."
Jones and the Countess remained in charge of the boat until they were eventually rescued by the Carpathia. They were among the 705-712 who survived the disaster, while over 1500 perished that night. Tom and the Countess remained in touch throughout their lives, with Noel gifting Tom an inscribed silver watch, whilst Tom sent her a mounted bronze No 8 off the bow of the lifeboat. Tom moved to Liverpool after the tragedy, where he married and started his own family. He died aged 89 in 1967, while the Countess died aged 77 in 1956.
Incredibly, Tom is not the only Titanic link in the tiny Welsh village. For up on the hillside sits the Gwesty Gadlys Country House Hotel, which was built in 1895 by the Anglesey Trading Company. This company was founded by three men, Owen Thomas, H.R. Maxted and A.R. Barkworth, the latter of whom was another of the survivors on board the Titanic that fateful night in 1912.
How to get there
Cemaes Bay is on the northernmost point of Anglesey, which is around a two hour drive from Manchester. The most direct route is following the A55 North Wales Expressway to Holyhead, and then head north to Cemaes. The nearest train station is in Holyhead, and then local buses serve Cemaes, either the 61 or 62.
