Imagine the improbable scene: one minute, you are leisurely paddling a canoe through a pretty tree-lined canal, and the next, you're 126ft in the air, still sitting in your boat; how could this possibly be happening?
Thankfully, there is a rational explanation involving a historic aqueduct and a spot of engineering brilliance. At 126ft high, the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in Wales is one of the most astonishing achievements of the Industrial Revolution, where you can canoe along the highest aqueduct in the world.
A 'Stream in the Sky' Over the Dee Valley
Towering 38 metres over the Dee Valley, the 'stream in the sky' is the highest navigable aqueduct and is the oldest in Britain. It's definitely one for the fearless, with jaw-dropping views of the Welsh countryside, and I had come to paddle high above the ground to report back to you dear readers.
Designed and built by Thomas Telford and Williams Jessop, 'Pontcysyllte' is still used over 200 years after construction began. Elegantly designed engineering features enhance the landscape and carry the canal effortlessly across two deep river valleys and through undulating terrain.
Engineering Marvel and UNESCO World Heritage Site
Eighteen arched stone pillars support deep cast-iron troughs filled with water, forming a unique 'River in the Sky' accessible by foot or boat. Pontcysyllte Aqueduct carries the Llangollen Canal over the River Dee in the Vale of Llangollen. It's located near the pretty riverside town of Llangollen and is part of 11 miles of glorious canal and countryside spanning two countries.
In 2009, UNESCO made the eleven-mile canal from Chirk Bank to splendid Horseshoe Falls a World Heritage site for its engineering features and historical operation.
Paddling Across the Sky
Today, you can explore the waterways and famous aqueduct via canal boat, canoe, or foot. We booked a guided canoe trip with local experts Bearded Men Adventures to paddle across the sky with the pros. It's not super cheap at £50 per person aged above eight years old, but all equipment is provided, and you'll have expert guidance and tuition by BMA staff members.
My trip began on a pleasant morning in Llangollen with the paddle basics and how to put them to good practice whilst navigating the very busy canals.
A Popular Waterway
Our guide told us that each year, the Canal and River Trust welcomes nearly half a million visitors who arrive in droves to admire and photograph 'the stream in the sky', accessing the canal as walkers, boaters, anglers, cyclists, canoeists or kayakers. It's clearly a very popular waterway with loads of traditional canal boats filled with day trippers slowly chugging along this scenic stretch, so you'll need to pay close attention and give way to these larger vessels when paddling here.
The first 11 miles of the Llangollen Canal is also an outstanding piece of industrial and engineering heritage comprising embankments, tunnels, viaducts and aqueducts, including the historic Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and 31 other listed structures. The whole length of the site has also been designated a Scheduled Ancient Monument of National Importance and an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
The Daring Crossing
As we drifted along in our canoe group, our chatty guide gave us insight into the aqueduct's history while imparting a decent amount of local knowledge. After a few glorious miles of spotting narrow boats, birdlife and cutesy cottages, it was finally time to cross the 307-m-long aqueduct just 12 feet (3.7 metres) wide.
I'll be honest; it was squeaky bum time as we edged closer to the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. Over 200 years old and not a single railing on the canal side? Just a sheer drop and a sliver of wall between you and a 126-foot plummet. Yikes. Once we got the nod, we lined up like a canoeing conga line and started our slow paddle across what they call the 'river in the sky.'
Almost immediately, I clocked that the only thing between me and a dramatic tumble into the Dee Valley was a knee-high wall barely taller than the side of the canoe. Not exactly confidence-inspiring. If you've even the slightest fear of heights, this dizzying drop will absolutely get your adrenaline pumping.
Naturally, as a fearless (silently panicking) travel journalist, I leaned ever so slightly over the edge to sneak a look down, and maybe snap a cheeky pic or two. Balancing phone, paddle, and my frazzled nerves? Multi-tasking at its finest. But honestly, no photo could ever do it justice. You're floating high above this gorgeous Welsh valley, surrounded by greenery and epic views in every direction.
An Unforgettable Experience
After our first daring crossing, we turned around and did it all again, this time a little more relaxed and appreciative of the epic views (now that my racing heart had settled down). It's wild, it's wonderful, and it's got to be one of the most unforgettable experiences you can have in Wales. Trust me, this one needs a starring role on your adventure bucket list.
Where to Stay in Llangollen
Accommodation-wise, there are plenty of modern and historic hotels, B&Bs, and even a 16th-century drovers' inn, where you can enjoy a restful night's sleep. While summer here can be pretty pricey, you can find deals during the off-season if you do your research and check sites like Booking.com, Holiday Cottages, and Groupon. You can find great off-season prices on hotels and cosy self-catering stays.
For a boutique bed-and-breakfast experience near the River Dee, I love the beautifully refurbished Riversdale House; it's one of my favourite stays in the area. Winners of the North Wales Tourism Awards in 2023, this chic Victorian townhouse B&B features spacious, stylish rooms with views and a lush continental breakfast delivered to your door each morning.
