Relais Masseria Le Cesine is a four-star all-inclusive resort tucked away in southern Puglia, surrounded by rows of olive and fruit trees. There is so little around the hotel that guests can truly switch off from the outside world, sipping Aperol Spritz by the pool and finishing a book.
Ines Santos stayed at the resort as part of a trip with Great Rail Journeys, which included excursions to different parts of Puglia, making the hotel a comfortable base after a day of sightseeing. For those booking independently and wanting to explore, however, arranging a car or excursions is necessary.
Location and accessibility
The hotel is surrounded by an enormous nature reserve and has a private beach, which can be reached by shuttle bus. When Santos arrived in mid-September, the shuttle had already stopped operating for the season. She recommends checking which facilities are open before booking, particularly if beach access is a priority. The isolation is otherwise part of the appeal. She walked for 40 minutes one day and was surrounded by nothing but nature.
The resort is huge, with accommodation spread across villa-style buildings, making it feel more like a small Italian village than a traditional hotel. It has masseria in its name because it was once a traditional fortified agricultural estate. Today, many of these historic working farms have been restored into hotels, combining their heritage with modern comfort.
Hotel amenities and dining
There are three swimming pools, so guests can choose between finding a quiet corner to read or heading somewhere with music and more atmosphere. There is also a spa, which is quite small, with two hot tubs and a Turkish bath, plus a basic gym overlooking the olive trees. Spa sessions have to be booked in advance and last 45 minutes.
The room was spacious, comfortable and cleaned daily. The WiFi wasn't particularly reliable, which can be frustrating in such a remote location. Most evenings, the bar hosted an aperitif alongside some form of entertainment, giving guests somewhere to gather before dinner.
Food was probably the highlight of the stay. Breakfast was broadly the same each day, but there was a good variety, including Italian pastries and fresh orange juice. Lunch was light and changed daily, with different hot dishes, salads and local produce. There was always gelato afterward. Dinner was the real standout, with a different pasta specialty every day, alongside starters, main courses, fresh fish, and local desserts. There was also plenty of cheese, from a whole mozzarella bar one night to a huge wheel of Parmesan taking centre stage another.
Seasonal limitations and verdict
Not everything is included. Some things, including the tennis court, many cocktails and additional spa sessions, cost extra. Seasonal changes also matter. One of the hotel's attractions during high season is its pizza bar, where guests can get unlimited slices. By the time Santos arrived, it had already closed for the year, meaning she spent her entire Italian holiday without a single slice of pizza.
Relais Masseria Le Cesine is a very particular kind of Italian holiday. If you want to leave the hotel every morning, wander around a town and find somewhere different for dinner each night, its remote location could become frustrating. But if you want somewhere to properly switch off, eat well and spend your days between pools and nature, it's perfect.
For Santos, it was a relaxing base for exploring Puglia, especially since her Great Rail Journeys trip covered the excursions. For independent travellers, she advises going knowing that this really is an off-grid all-inclusive - and that is precisely what makes it appealing.
