My first-ever visit to Lisbon meant I had to tick off some must-do activities: bar-hop along Pink Street, ride a vintage yellow tram, and try not to get too exhausted climbing the city’s seven hills. But right at the top of my list was one very important goal: try as many pastel de natas as possible.
I have a major sweet tooth, and I adore pastel de natas, the traditional custard pastry that’s like a little drop of heaven on my tongue. The sweet treat originated sometime before the 18th century at the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, about 10km outside Lisbon, where it was made by Catholic monks. By the early 19th century, they were being sold to the public.
Before my trip to Lisbon, the best one I’d ever had was 195 miles away in Porto. Some hit the sweet spot in London too — my current favourites can be found at Lisboa Pattiserie on Golborne Road. So when I arrived in Portugal’s colourful capital, I made it my mission to head to three of the top-rated pastel de nata spots and see if they really were the best in the world. Here’s my honest verdict.
3. Pastelaria Santo António
Address: Rua do Milagre de Santo António 10, 1100-351 Lisboa
Price: Single tart around €1.50, Coca-Cola Zero €2
Pastelaria Santo António is in the Alfama neighbourhood, the oldest in Lisbon, nestled into a hillside. As such, be prepared for what can only be described as a hike to get there. Making my way to Pastelaria Santo António was a feat. Friends had warned me about Lisbon being hilly, and I was prepared – but my gosh, did the walk to this spot take effort. I had no choice but to take a pit stop on a bench on the way there, inscribed with the words: ‘Sit here if u have love to give.’
It was a warm spring day, and I was sweaty by the time I reached the bakery, pleading for a Diet Coke the minute I walked through the door. The building is beautiful, with blue and white tiling on the outside, and the square on which it’s situated (that you can overlook from upstairs) was busy with tourists.
Some pastel de natas that I’ve eaten in my lifetime truly stand out in my memory – like the first warm and fluffy pastel de nata I tried when I visited Porto a couple of years ago, or the one I nibbled on after queuing in the cold in Notting Hill – and the tasty one I’d just sampled at Manteigaria (more on that later). But at Pastelaria Santo António, panting and out of breath, the pastel de nata itself was still tasty, but I couldn’t enjoy it as much. Perhaps it goes to show that experience is almost as important as taste, or maybe this pastel de nata just wasn’t quite as crispy and creamy. Note to self, for when I visit next time – prepare for the hill and catch your breath before you order. It might not be the most memorable of the pastel de natas that I ate, but I’m glad I went.
2. Pastéis de Belém
Address: R. de Belém 84 92, 1300-085 Lisboa
Price: Single tart €1.60 (£1.38), pack of six €9.60 (£8.29)
You can’t go to Lisbon and not visit Pastéis de Belém. This spot is where the monks from Jerónimos Monastery sold the very first custard tarts in 1837, and the rest, as they say, is history. Queues were spilling out onto the streets to get into this place. I was fortunate that I was on a street art tour, and my guide skipped the queue to ask a friend who works there to fetch a packet of pastel de natas and three espressos for the two of us and our driver.
Being a Londoner, I’m never one to shy away from a queue. If I’d had to queue up for an extortionate amount of time to try one of these famous pastel de natas, I definitely would have still done so. How often do you have the chance to visit one of the most famous pastelarias in the world? We raced through the bakery, with its blue and white tiles and chandeliers, and even peeked a glimpse of the chefs shaping the pastries through a large indoor glass window, with the machine squirting custard into rows upon rows of tarts.
I might have eaten my pastel de nata in a car park, but it was still a treat. Coming from a packet so that we could take them away wasn’t quite the same, as nothing can beat a pastel de nata that’s come straight from the oven, but it was still lip-smacking good. In the past, I would have turned my nose up at a pastel de nata in a packet. I’ve had one that way before, and it was a dry disappointment – but in this case, I was pleasantly surprised. Aside from not being warm, as it wasn’t straight out of the oven, the flaky pastry still crumbled beautifully in my mouth. That’s on me for ever doubting Pastéis de Belém.
This place was packed with tourists, and while I completely understood why people were spending ages waiting for a seat at Pastéis de Belém (as I would have done if I hadn’t been on an organised tour with a queue jump), I can’t deny that you can find pastel de natas that are just as good, if not better, without the queue. Nonetheless, it was incredible to visit the historic site and soak up the history, and I would definitely recommend other holiday-goers to do so.
1. Manteigaria
Address: Rua do Loreto 2, 1200-108 Lisboa
Price: Single tart €1.50, espresso €1
When I began researching where to find the best pastel de natas in Lisbon, Manteigaria was at the top of the list, and was highly recommended to me by people who’d been there before. So I was quite surprised when I turned up at the tiny store, and there wasn’t even a queue. The historical spot started life as an early 19th-century butter factory, supplying the essential to the entire city. You can read the name, Manteigaria União, on the shop front — ‘Manteigaria’ means ‘butter’ in English.
This place was quaint and lovely, with a warm atmosphere despite not being brimming with customers. Through a pane of glass, you can spy chefs in the open kitchen, hand-making more tarts than I could count. I’m a traditionalist, and have little interest in pastel de natas that come in different flavours. In my eyes, you can’t beat the classic. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, right? However, I was told that you do need to sprinkle a little cinnamon on top (advice that was given to me rather sternly, which I will follow forevermore).
So I ate my pastel de nata (plus cinnamon sprinkle) along with an espresso at the stand-up table inside. I also learnt that it’s traditional to enjoy a pastel de nata alongside an espresso. As a coffee aficionado, you’ll hear no complaints from me. My pastel de nata looked as though it was burnt on top – but like a basque cheesecake, this was entirely intentional. The pastry flaked beautifully, and the custard filling inside was delectable.
I loved all three of these spots – but Manteigaria was by far my favourite. The serenity of this cosy bakery meant that I could really take in the soul-warming flavours of the pastel de nata, and despite being a well-known place, it still felt like a hidden gem. Eating it as the Portuguese do, meant that this pastel de nata claimed the top spot for me. Utterly divine.
