The Victorian seaside town of Aberystwyth, with its quirky railway, award-winning beaches, and the best fish and chips, is one of the most visited places in Wales.
A First Visit to Aberystwyth
We have ventured to Wales many times over the years, but for some reason, the popular town of Aberystwyth had escaped us. A three-hour trip from Manchester, it is not the closest place for a day trip, but during a weekend away in Powys, just an hour from 'Aber', as it is known by locals, it seemed silly not to pay a visit.
It certainly does not go unnoticed by tourists. Often referred to as the 'culture capital' of Cymru, the town is one of the most visited places in Wales and home to the country's oldest pier, which opened in 1865.
The Royal Pier
Now a shortened version of its original length, the Royal Pier is billed as 'a one stop destination for food, drinks, socialising and family fun', with an arcade, a pub, a chippy, a nightclub and more. On one side of the pier sits Aberystwyth Castle, a Grade I listed Edwardian fortress built in response to the First Welsh War in the late 13th Century.
Aberystwyth Cliff Railway
But it was the attraction on the northern end of the promenade that grabbed our attention: the quirky looking Aberystwyth Cliff Railway. The longest electric funicular cliff railway in Britain, it has been transporting visitors to the summit of Constitution Hill since opening in 1896 and operated on a water balance system until electrification in 1921.
The carriages are hauled to the summit at just four miles an hour, powered by a powerful motor and steel cables. The slow pace means you have plenty of time to take in the stunning landscape below, with spectacular views of the town, Cardigan Bay, and on a clear day, 26 mountain peaks spanning much of the length of Wales.
It is not just a trip up and down either, as there are things to do at the top of the hill, including a small crazy golf course, frisbee golf, a games room with pool, air hockey and 10-pin bowling, and one of the world's largest camera obscuras, which offers a live bird's eye view of 1,000 square miles of land and seascape below. Costing £1 each, we did not get to see much, but were told the view is better on a clearer day.
Consti Cafe and More
There is a small gift shop and some historical displays charting the history of the hill, which was once known as Luna Park, a Victorian predecessor to modern theme parks, and featured a helter skelter and an early form of roller coaster known as 'switchback railway'. There is also a popular Consti cafe selling meals, snacks and drinks. It even has its own pick 'n' mix stand.
Saving ourselves for fish and chips, we enjoyed a coffee and a cider, and it was warm enough to sit in the covered outdoor seating area. You can walk back down if you want, but it is only £1 more to get a return ticket (adults £8, children £7), so we took the easy option and got a standing spot in the front of the carriage for an unobstructed view. You can take dogs in the carriages, but the whimpering dog in our carriage did not seem too keen on the experience.
Award-Winning Beaches
Back down, we had time to explore more of the town, which has won awards for both of its beaches, often praised for their crystal clear turquoise waters. While some visitors were brave enough to take a dip, we kept cool with some ice cream sundaes from Prom Diner, a popular spot along the front selling Italian-inspired luxury Welsh ice cream Mario's.
Also on the main promenade, which is lined with colourful pastel coloured buildings, is The Original Tram Company, doing a roaring trade selling crepes, waffles, donuts and drinks. Set back from the front are rows of shops with some independent delights, including the cute Bookshop By The Sea and no less than three shops from independent clothing brand Polly, established more than 30 years ago in the town.
The seaside village vibe is dwindling by the time you reach Great Darkgate Street and the big names like Bet Fred, Savers and JD, along with banks and mobile phone shops.
Fish and Chips on the Pier
With an about turn, it was time for our long-awaited chippy tea, and we headed back to the Royal Pier. As inviting as it sounded to enjoy 'a chipnic on the pier', where there are loads of picnic style tables offering more breathtaking views, it was a little too blustery for that, so we chose to grab and go.
As much as I love a coastal view while tucking into fish and chips, I have to admit that with so many seagulls circling ahead, we decided to retreat to the car to enjoy ours in peace. It seemed a little odd to be charged 25p for a tray to eat them from. I am not sure we would have managed without them given the sauce and gravy we had bought to pour on them.
That said, the food was delicious, and our 'chipnic in the car' was the perfect ending to a fun-packed day.
