Luxor, Egypt, offers 27C warmth in November and a wealth of ancient history without the tourist crowds that flock to Cairo and Giza. A recent visit highlighted the city's hot air balloon rides, the Valley of the Kings, and its grand temples, making it a compelling alternative for history enthusiasts.
Hot Air Balloon Ride Over Ancient Wonders
Drifting 2,000 feet above the ground in cloudless skies, the only thing keeping passengers from plummeting is a balloon full of hot air and an engine spurting fire. The ride rises high above the Valley of the Queens, with 20 or so other balloons bobbing around as ancient temples and ruins dot the land below.
The pilot points out the Temple of Hatshepsut, while lush green vegetation and people as small as ants work on uncovering more historical sites less than a mile beneath the basket. Despite a slightly bumpy landing, the balloon ride is smooth and offers an incredible view of the landscape.
Exploring the Valley of the Kings and Temples
The visit to Luxor followed three nights in Marsa Alam, on the coast of the Red Sea. Switching the ocean for the River Nile, with the hotel Sonesta St. George located right on the riverbank and accessible by boat, is not a hardship. The buildings surrounding the area are simply stunning.
A few hours' drive from Marsa, holidaymakers who travel with TUI can access Luxor for a day excursion or longer. It is worth the early start and winding coach journey through the nearby desert to reach the historic city, founded in 3000 BC.
Along with the hot air balloon trip, the itinerary includes the Valley of the Kings for a closer look at the ancient tombs, including the one which holds Tutankhamun's mummy, still meticulously preserved. Uncovered in 1922, the tomb had been covered in a mountain of rubble from excavations happening higher up on the hill, leaving archaeologists baffled until they finally found its location.
Why Luxor Beats Cairo for Some Travellers
Many more tourists opt for Cairo and Giza, but Luxor offers plenty of sphinxes, statues, and incredible temples which offer access to the public. Seeing the bright colours of the tombs – reds and blues and yellows – and the ancient hieroglyphs still etched into walls and columns is truly surreal.
The visit includes Karnak Temple, which Agatha Christie famously named her Nile steamer after, along with Luxor Temple and Hatshepsut Temple. A guide points out the “first ever spreadsheet”, made centuries before Microsoft Excel, used to count up the food offerings made to the gods.
The endless line of sphinx statues in various states of disrepair lines a huge corridor which bridges the temples of Karnak and Luxor together. 'Sphinx Alley', as it is aptly named, was used for the annual Opet Festival, which saw the Ancient Egyptians carry statues of their gods in a parade between the two temples.
Local Culture and Luxury Stays
The metropolitan feel of Luxor is not missed, with a trip to the local bazaar plunging visitors into the heart of the city's merchant district, surrounded by stall owners attempting to sell jewellery, T-shirts, and Egyptian perfumes.
There is time to stop for a delicious meal at the historic Winter Palace hotel's 1886 restaurant, where jackets and ties for men aren't optional and “smart” clothing is recommended for ladies. The hotel is frequented by big names such as Howard Carter, Tony Blair, and Lord Carnarvon, and is worth it solely for its opulence, with artwork lining the corridors and huge windows looking out onto sweeping gardens where live music tinkles gently by an impressive fountain.
The Sonesta St. George hotel blends traditional Egyptian architecture with modern luxury. Some rooms have their own saunas tucked away in the bathrooms, and the property boasts a heated swimming pool overlooking the Nile.
TUI offers all-inclusive packages and bounteous excursions in Luxor, so it's not somewhere described as a hidden gem when so many UK tourists choose Cairo as an entry point. But a little deeper into the country, you'll find so much incredible history – though don't bank on seeing any pyramids.
